Okay... Thanks for the comments, Guys.
I've done a little more digging on the flat tappet additive problem.
It seems that most new cars have a different type of cam that uses rollers, so the additive (It's called ZDDP) is not strictly necessary. It also -- supposedly -- is hard on Catalytic Converters and the auto manufacturers have requested that the oil makers stop putting it in for emmissions purposes.
I looked around for an alternative source of ZDDP, and found that most of the "additive" manufacturers make an oil additive (STP being the one that comes to mind first) that contains it, but many of these have Paraffin in them as well... And those CERTAINLY won't be going into my 216.
There is also a "Break in" additive that GM makes that is highly recommended as a ZDDP replacement on several websites and forums that I perused. It supposedly is just the chemical, with no paraffin or anything else that will gum up my engine. I think it's called "Engine Oil Supplement" or something similar.
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I went oil shopping last night, and it looks like the Rotella T SAE 30 is one of the last ones with ZDDP in it. It's an API SJ or SH oil, whereas the 15w40 that they make is an SM -- which is sans additive.
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Originally posted by atomarc:
On a multi-grade oil, pour point depressants keep the viscosity 'thin' at low temps (0°), but it doesn't get 'thick' as it warms up....it just doesn't' get 'thin'. The parameters for measuring at 0° are different than at 210°.
[blinks]
Uh, okay...
Do I have it backwards?
If I run 10w30 in my 1999 Bonneville...
Is it an 10w oil with stuff in it that makes it lubricate like SAE 30 when it's warm or is it an SAE 30 oil that has stuff in it that keeps it from thinkening up (and makes it pour and pump like 10w) when it gets cold out?
Also originally posted by atomarc:
My bet is that this thread will go on for probably 50 posts, then the world will end. 
Originally posted by TxLaTx:
I drive 30 wt year 'round. It gets pretty chilly here in mid-winter, probably about as cold as November in the the state that looks like a kitten, er mitten.
My opinion: drive it April to November using 30 wt. When it is blustery cold, chances are you aren't driving it anyway.
Very true. I do fire the old girl up and let her run every few weeks in the winter, though. I just want to make sure I don't blow something up.
Originally posted by 1969c10:
So I called Valvoline's tech line today. I was told that the VR1 racing oils have the zinc needed to keep flat tappet cams happy. They also told me any brands racing oils were safe.
That's good to know. I know I can find VR1.
Originally posted by 1969c10:
I have heard from Bullet Cams that the Rotella may not be safe much longer because of the introduction of converters on the new diesel trucks. If you look at the back of SAE 30 non-detergant oil, it says it is not recomended for most engines newer than 1963.
I've read that somewhere online. The Rotella 15w40 at my FLAPS and at Advance is already at an API SM rating, which AFAIK, means there's no zinc.
It's going into a 216 from '49, so I think we're safe there!
Originally posted by Achipmunk:
Brendan: when I was stationed in the "U/P" I ran 10-30 in my 58 Impala with 348/3duces. It was a little slow starting (battery) on the coldest days but otherwise no problems but I was only there for a year. It depends a lot on "Cold engine" ..."Hot Engine" as they both need different attention at at different times.
Yah, da UP gets preddy cold in da winner, dere.
I'm actually leaning toward using a multigrade, what with all the guys around here saying that it works fine.
Also originally posted by Achipmunk:
I would think that engine oil had changed due to the CLOSER TOLERANCES(?) now used on most engines but I say that cautiously!!
I do know this... that POS 2005 Dodge that the company bought for me to run around in takes 5w20. I was a little bit surprised when I had the oil changed last. The guy at the oil change place said that was because of the way the bearings fit. I figured that he was full of crap -- they usually are -- but I heard the same thing from my mechanic not to long ago.
Also originally posted by Achipmunk:
I know a LOT of folks in my warmer climate run SAE 30 year round, and some that run the multigrades and none have problems. I think any good grade will do good if vehicle is maintained regularly. During my life I have sworn by Quaker State, then Pennzoil, at one time I was a Shell Single G man, but for the past 30 years its been Valvoline or Castrol. Valvoline in HP engines and Castrol 10-30 for daily drivers.
My dad had some problems with Penzoil a number of years ago and has been a Quaker State guy ever since. I just kept putting Quaker State in my stuff after I stopped driving his cars on a regular basis.
Originally posted by Beaver 53:
Blown 3 350 chevy engines in past 4 years using pennzoil. I feel the lack of zink has caused problems. Signed " LOOKING FOR ZINK IN MY OIL."
P.S. Flat tappet engines be ware.
Ouch.
