A bit late to the conversation, but I’d like to add my two cents!

Adding to the long bolt idea, I would turn the end down to 5/16-18 making it into a shoulder bolt. This way you could torque the nut and washer down without restricting the clevis movement.

If you do go with just the nut on the 3/8” rod/bolt, I would drill a hole straight thru the nut and rod/bolt to add a cotter pin.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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