Just read your latest post, did you just now use the ammeter input with all outs connected to dangling switch on the bracket? That was not part of the plan so far. No ammeter hookup was advised yet. We can test that now if you want, I will advise how.
By the way, where did you tap into 12V with the jumper?
Use your cell phone to take pics of back of ammeter and the wire to switch to notice loose connections or routing/shorting issues.
Yes, need to move truck, it will start with just 5A jumper as input. Don't need ammeter to move truck.
FYI: According to 1949 wiring diagram, your ammeter output goes to:
1. headlight switch
2. Ignition switch
3. Voltage regulator
The voltage to the switch from the ammeter is 12V.... the voltage to the switch from jumper is 12V. The voltage to the ammeter comes from the battery post to the starter stud and on to, and straight thru, the ammeter. It must be that just a few strands of the old wire are still connected and voltage breaks down under load. Don't know. See part in green and proceed with what you think needs done there. Ammeters have a bad wiring idea, they do provide info. Voltmeter is a better wiring idea and supported by harness makers, same info, albeit not original.
It could possibly be a waste of time to find out what's wrong, if anything. with ammeter input/output if you are just moving truck to rewire location. We have proven the switch is OK, we have proven the accessories are OK....we have proven the wiring is not........ and the 12V conversion is not optimum.
Last edited by bartamos; 01/08/2025 10:23 PM. Reason: clarification
