Unless the ignition switch is marked, there is no "Battery terminal". You can use any of the terminals for that. There is no acc position. I believe you have almost proven that. That was part of the reason for the test. I believe switch is all terminals on and all terminals off.
OK so to get a visual in my mind and to suggest further.
1. Don't put switch back, leave it off and disconnected. Always use the new switch.
2. Test continuity and no continuity between the "other two" to each other and report. You missed the "any two" test. I'm trying to eliminate or include the switch as the problem as the very first step.
3. Don't hook anything up or test anything while I'm trying to get on a roll. You also missed that request and have possilbly blown components.
4. Do you have foot start or a solenoid?
5. Can you please describe in detail where each wire to or from ignition switch terminals go. I'm trying to get a visual of your electrical and at the same time do what I would do if I was there. Not trying to be big boss man but you have tried and were getting nowhere and asked for help so let me try with your hands and reports. If that method is not suitable I will understand.
6. Is ign sw bracket hard to get off?
7. Do you have an internally resisted coil and no ballast resistor? Is the coil 12V? Is there no bypass circuit? You asked "When the engine turns over, I don't get 12 volts at any of the terminals on the back of the switch. I would think the voltage would stay at battery voltage even when turning over, no?" The starter can rob the coil of voltage, that is what a bypass circuit is for.
I have further tests/plans but I do one step at a time. Some of your ideas/guesses are valid but I'm not considering anything yet.
Can you number your answers per question numbers?
Remember don't do or change anything or do tests via energizing circuits. I will get back after I see your response. Disconnect neg bat cable until we synergize.
Last edited by bartamos; 01/03/2025 1:36 AM. Reason: spelling/clarification
