Hi Bartamos, when the key is off the Ohm meter shows no continuity to either post or switch casing from the "Battery" post (which actually connects the battery voltage via the Ammeter). When the key is on, there is perfect continuity between "Battery" and either of the two accessory posts (shows 0 ohms and I get the continuity tone from the multimeter). With the key on, from "Battery" to the case the ohmmeter shows 0.L ohms, and does not give the continuity tone.
My coil/points are powered directly from the key (internal resistor, no wire from the starter), is it possible that with the key on the power draw from the coil is depressing the voltage? Sometimes I get full battery voltage on the accessory post (with key on) and sometimes not.
A pic of the switch is below, next time I put it in the dash I'll snap a pic of that. The mounting posts sit really close to a lot of groundable material. I think I bought this from Classic Parts, but it could have been any of the other vendors.
Edit: I put the reproduction switch back in (dangling, not in the panel) and this time when I turned the key to on the switch made a "shorting/arcing" sound and I saw the fuel gauge go dead. Not enough of a short to smoke or spark but you could hear it. Turned the switch off and back on and it did it again, then went dead (the fuel gauge and radio) permanently. The switch still tests fine on the bench: continuity where it's supposed to be and no shorting to the case of the switch.
When the engine turns over, I don't get 12 volts at any of the terminals on the back of the switch. I would think the voltage would stay at battery voltage even when turning over, no?
