I use the 2 person method, and here's how I do it. First find all of your bleeder screws, they are located on the wheel cylinders right next to the brake lines on each wheel. They should require a 3/8" wrench, and probably have a small screw on the end of them which requires a 5/16" wrench. Make sure all screws can be opened freely. Fill the master cyl., replace cap, and have #1 person pump the brake pedal several times until it begins to build pressure. When there is some pressure on the pedal #1 pushes and holds the pedal. #2 then goes to the wheel furthest from the m/c, meaning the wheel that has the most brake line between it, and the m/c. On my 48 that would be dr. rear. With the small screw in the end of the bleeder removed, crack open the bleeder screw about a 1/4 turn and have #1 tell you when the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. #1 holds the pedal to the floor and #2 closed the bleeder screw. #1 pumps brake pedal until there is pressure and then holds pedal. #2 opens the bleeder screw and #1 tells #2 when the pedal is all the way to the floor, #2 then closes bleeder screw. Repeat this process until only clear brake fluid comes out of the bleeder screw, no air, no bubbles or foamy looking fluid. Then work your way around the truck hitting the next wheel closest to the m/c each time, and repeat at each wheel. On my 48 2ton I went dr.rear, pass.rear, dr.front, pass.front. When you are done replace the small screws in the ends of the bleeder screws. Throughout this process, check to be sure that the m/c stays full of fluid, and remember to recap the m/c before you start pumping the brake pedal.
Did I miss any thing? That's how I've always done it, other guys might have easier or different ways.
