If you are not a purest, the exact motor, Chevy or GMC is not a big deal. The fact that it does not run is a factor on price. Since I don't know the price range, here are you thought patterns:
1a. Legit VIN riveted to the truck HAS TO match a legit title.
1b. Body rust
2. Body rust
3. Frame rust
4. Bad rust fixes
5. Completeness and/or originality of parts.
6. Glass
7. The price
Now to the motor: On one hand, to me, it's not a big deal. I just fix it for cheap or buy another running motor. On the other hand, it's difficult to check trans, clutch, brakes, steering, suspension, cooling, oil pressure, compression without driving. Bottom line is that a non runner should have a discount.
SO...........if you want to: See if motor turns over by hand or rocking/pushing in gear, or starter. See if brakes go to floor or hold truck from rolling. See if clutch keeps truck from rolling and when released, truck rolls. If you check compression, the seller may use it against you.
We don't know your purpose or vision, your experience, the price, the condition. If the only problem is the motor, that would be semi normal. Some people rebuild and spend $1000's. I buy a motor that drops in and runs for $400 and sell the other or use it's accessories. Make the motor a big deal and feel out the seller. Get the history, the last time ran, the date on license tag and judge the character and words of seller. Be honest yourself. Anything can be fixed.
Looks in good condition, check for bondo and broken body parts. Ask why it has tow bar brackets.
Missing front valance. Strange rust hole in mustache. See how long he has owned it to see if he is a flipper.
The VIN is a legit GMC serial number 101-24 CZ 2856. It is a 10= 1/2T 100 series, 1=short bed, 24= 248 motor, C= Oakland, Z= 1954. 1855th off the line (started numbering after 1001)
