I don't know if you have this diagram of the oil path to rockers. Notice that one connector is sweated into the block. If you can't clean the line or you twist/break the line you have to replace it. Kits are available. Unless your next step is to rebuild your engine, don't worry about replacing the rocker shafts. Try to get oil to the rockers. Chances are the rocker arms and pushrod ends are worn as well. One of the old time tricks was to install an external lubricator and dribble oil on top of the rockers.
If you buy a new metal tank, built like the original, you want to run non-ethanol gas. After several months Ethanol (corn gas) will break down to gas and water. It will rust your new tank even if you use additives (given enough time).
216 and 235 blocks are known to build up rust in the water jacket at the rear of the engine. I would drain and flush the engine block and the radiator. The rear petcock may need to be removed to let the rust sediment out.
Last edited by buoymaker; 03/27/20212:46 PM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
