The part I don't like is the lack of good head's up Pertronix information to help you make a sensible purchase. Also, voltage potential is needed to initiate the spark across the plug gap but it's the current that produces the spark energy. Nobody advertises the current capability.

Clem, there is typical old-style maintenance involved if you keep your Stovebolt original. When starting a cold motor (stock coil and 6 volt battery) the battery current is literally sucked into the starter motor (I don't know maybe 300 amps) and at the same time you need some of this current energy for the plugs. A weak battery doesn't help at all. Then it's a series of resistances that limits the current energy to the spark plugs. Poor battery connections, small diameter battery cables, poor grade of copper in the battery cables, poor connections on the wiring going to the coil primary can reduce the capability of the coil to build up a strong field. From the coil secondary, humidity inside the distributor, worn points, corroded rotor cap, corroded cap posts, bad cap to spark plug wire connections, spark wires with bad insulation (bad wires) are some of the "roadblocks" to getting current to the plugs. All this leads up to my point. Just because you have weak spark doesn't mean the coil is bad or needs to be a higher voltage. I would look for things that typically wear out first.

Last edited by buoymaker; 12/11/2020 5:29 PM.

"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use."
"I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."