Hi TUTS 59,

I agree that this rear axle looks like a Dana 44, but I am having difficulty placing it in a GM truck. I worked on a lot of GM light trucks in the 70s and 80s, and the ones I remember all had the GM (corporation) axles. I do seem to remember the 44 used on the front of some early Blazers, just not in the rear. (Of course, since I can't even remember what I had for breakfast this AM, you can take the above for what its worth... smile )

Were they used in GM trucks maybe before or after that time period ? If so, do you know any specific years that Darrell could use to help narrow down his search ?


Hi Darrel Day,

So it looks like we are still in ID mode here. A couple of suggestions:

1. Some axles are identified by a stamped number/letter combination. You may find it stamped horizontally on the centerline of one of the axle tubes, probably on the rear of the right tube for a Dana, although it could be anywhere. You axle looks in pretty good condition without a lot of rust, so you may uncover it after using a rag, some mineral spirits, and some elbow grease. This may yield a clue about its origins.

2. I remember seeing a lot of 44s in Jeeps. Maybe that's where your axle came from? I believe they used the same bolt pattern as the GM full size trucks? What is the bolt pattern on your truck? Are the rears the same as the front? I'm guessing the front hubs are probably original since the front still has the Huck brakes?

3. The shoe configuration appears to be the standard Bendix design. If you measure the inner diameter of the wheel cylinder, you may be able to match it up with one that has the same mounting configuration. If you can find a good parts store with an experienced (and patient) counter person you may get lucky. Likewise for the brake shoes and drums. I have also had some luck using online sources such as Rock Auto. If you find a matching part, you can often work backwards to determine the application. You just have to be careful that the picture they show is representative of the actual part, and not just a generic image.


Sleeving and rebuilding your existing cylinders is an option. As mentioned, stainless steel will give you added durability and resistance to corrosion. If your master cylinder is unsealed (i.e. no accordion type gasket on the cover) it is something to consider. I had my wheel and master cylinder done by these guys. They did a beautiful job that I was very pleased with. They even have a video of the process.

Wheel Cylinder Sleeving

However, since these are not original (the rears, that is) and are probably not rare, you may not feel its worth the cost if quality replacements are readily available. It just depends on your preference and budget.

One final suggestion. After looking again at your pics, it would be a good idea to relocate / replace, and anchor the brake line on the rear axle using clips that are held in place by the cover bolts. The way it is currently mounted makes it very susceptible to damage.

Best Regards...

p.s. John Milliman. If I lend you some of my silicone brake grease, will you promise not to delete my account ? smile