The cap is self venting, but I will give this a try.
To expand on bartamos’ suggestion, if you have a non vented gas cap or the vent is plugged your gas tank will build vacuum and not allow fuel to get to the fuel pump. Setting for a few minutes will relieve the vacuum enough to restart. You failed to mention if upon restart the engine keeps running til you shut it down or if it dies again in 20 minutes.ðŸ›
See above regarding the cap. I should have mentioned that I can restart the engine, but only if I give the throttle a good press, just like it was flooding. That is right after it dies and NOT waiting for minutes after. It dies almost immediately after I let off the throttle after it has warmed up and trying to restart it.
Put a T into the gas line between the fuel pump and the carb and monitor the fuel pressure with a 0-10 PSI gauge. It sounds like you have too much fuel pump pressure and the fuel is pushing the needle valve off its seat at idle and flooding the engine. If it were starving for gas you wouldn't have to hold the throttle wide open in the "clear flood" mode to restart. Are you running a mechanical or an electric fuel pump? Max fuel pressure for a carbureted engine should be around 4-5 PSI.
Jerry
I will see if I can fix up a pressure gauge. I am leaning towards it still flooding from what I see and I have read. I am running a mechanical fuel pump. Same from before the rebuild.
How long have you had the YF2100? Not miles, but length of time.
The accelerator pump diaphragm does not get along at all with today's formula of gas. They develop pinholes and cause significant flooding just as you are describing. I get 1.5 to 3 years out of mine before I have to replace the diaphragm.
Pull your plugs and see if they are covered with black soot.
Perform the tests mentioned above.
If those tests don't indicate problems and the spark plugs are sooty and the carb has not been rebuilt for a long while, rebuild it.
Like I always say, "Its always the carburetor."
Actually I never say that, but it might be the problem in your case, since you are going to check out everything else first.
What I should always say is, "You should always check out everything else before you dig into the carburetor." But that takes too long to type.
Carl
I have had the carb for a long time, but I rebuilt it with a good kit prior to installing on the new rebuilt engine. I know about the pump diaphragm issues cause my 300 I6 in my 78' Ford has the newer/different YF carb and has issues with today's gas. What a pain!
Could be that, I just could not think of anything else that would take 15-20 minutes except pulling a vacuum on the tank. The dripping points to flooding. Wire the heat riser open to test if it's that.
It's not dripping now after I made some float corrections, but it's still sputtering and dying like it did before. As for the vacuum in the tank, I wouldn't be able to restart right after it died, right? I would have to wait? Cause, right now I can restart right after it dies, but I have to give it alot of throttle like it's flooded.
Thank you all for the advice! I will try these things this week end and report back! It's been 6+ years since the old girl has been on the road and I am dying to have it back and dependable!
