speaker assembly more photos
Note about the use of glue and epoxy.
The glue (contact cement) is used for the outer edge of the spider cup and paper cone edges where it bonds to the metal speaker frame and for the outer gasket on top the paper cone and partially onto the metal frame. Do not apply it like "contact cement" use it like you would white glue, just smear it on, and stick parts together. It will work that way just fine and is how the speaker repair shops do it.
The Epoxy is used everywhere else, voice coil to spider, voice coil to cone, lead wires, dust cap.
I like using a small screw driver to dab the epoxy into the various places it needs to go.
The standard 6x9 voice coils come with prepunched holed for the lead wires, these are always too far up the cone walls for old speakers.
I patch these factory holes with a tiny circle of black paper, and i make new holes about an inch or so from the voice coil.
The lead wires should be allowed to cure in place with the epoxy before you place the service loops and solder them to the terminals on the back side.
The dust cap is the last part to go on, you can and perhaps should test the speaker before gluing the dust cap in place.
Don't forget you need to supply the field coil with DC when you test this speaker, if you don't it barely makes a peep.
I used a bluetooth demo kit that contains a powerful class D speaker driver for testing purposes. Then I can play all the terrible music i keep on my iPhone to break it in
-stan
