http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h298/1951otter/ you'll have to scroll down the page after you open the link ... forget the logon bit at the top.
The tank is from tanks inc. a universal 16 gal e/w anti roll valve. @ $215.00
I finally got hold of a digital camera. sorry no shots of the completed set up as i'm about to haul the 1/2t off to the blaster..... paint soon.
these shots are of my under pass bed gas tank, a 16 gallon w/ the old cab filler turned 180 and welded to a plate. a decorative piece made to cover the bed outside was welded to the original cab filler neck and bolted w/ three 1/4'' bolts. i flared out the stock filler neck at the end to 2''. as was told to me by a friend,... '''jim this is a drive-a-way tank filler, and you'll have the station's hose''' . this mounts to the passenger side, in front of the rear fender, below bedwood @ the side skirting. there is room for a 2'' hose to connect the filler spout to the tank inlet neck.
it a universal steel tank from tanks inc. it's 10''x11''x34''.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ry_id=69/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd128.htm i welded shut the original chevy tank filler neck's vent tube as it was not needed w/ this new tank, (it has a newer system). I also welded the top of the univ. tank filler neck (as delievered) closed. i really do not like the gas filler hidden in the wood slat/area of the bed. A piece of curved 2'' muffler pipe was fit & welded to the new tank top-edge, side, (these are available @ muffler shops or auto supply houses as pre-bent pieces), w/ the new hole cut into the bed skirt that lines up w/ the new filler tube. the tank comes w/ an anti-roll vent so the rubber hose can be placed above the tank's highest point. i vented mine to inside the fender well & directed it so mud and crud will not plug the hose end. i had to cut out the stock 3104's frame 'corner plate' so the tank would fit as far forward. the four 1/2'' threaded rods are held up to the under side of the bed so the tank is as high as possible. 1/2'' all-thread w/ nuts welded to small plates welded to the bed's cross wood braces hold the tank up. i glued rubber strips to the bottom cross braces as well as the top of the tank when fitted so vibration is eliminated. You'll have to fit a wood spacer e/w rubber for vibration on top of the tank between the bed under frame to space what you'll need. tighten as needed to secure the tank in situ. my tank's finished in Por 15. unless you space your rear axle @ a further distance back, you may have to cut the rear tank corner to fit close to the third member next to the pumpkin and weld back a plate to the tank, my new 12 bolt rear end was fitted @ the same time @ 2-1/2'' back. this is a some-what tight fit length wise and the (stovebolt suppliers) kits only offset available @ 1-1/2'' offset. i think the 2-1/2'' offset looks A LOT better than the 1-1/2''. that gave me all the room i needed to fit the full 16 gal tank w/o hacking the tank at all. the gas pick-up fuel is @ the rear along w/ the sender. i set the sender so it should show empty but it has 3-4 gallons left as reserve.
hope this helps...
