Never heard of babbit heads. The motor has babbit bearings. The idea to prime is OK except the Ford guy.
Other than that, a good plan. It will take a long time for oil to appear in upper part of motor. There is a valve that has to open with pressure. The pickup screen could be blocked. Gauge has to be placed in correct location. There is no "high" pressure. So on a 100 lb donor gauge, it won't move much. Need a gauge with 30 lb max. I.E., small increments
Here is a post from Jerry. Before spending money, pay heed to his last sentence.
"A 1952 235 will be a low oil pressure "splash oiler" engine, the one with Babbit bearings built into the connecting rods. It's an upsized version of the 216 that was originally used in medium-duty trucks and military vehicles from 1941 to 1953 or so. It's an interesting engine, but old geezers like me who remember how to work on them are getting few and far between. Virtually nothing on the early 235 interchanges with the later model engines with the insert bearings. Speed equipment- - - - -forget about it! Even the camshaft and crankshaft is different than the later engine, and the pistons are made of cast iron, not aluminum.
If you're building a numbers-correct restored show truck, stay with the early engine. For practical purposes and ease of repair, go for the 54-up later design 235.
Jerry"
The Rochester could be leaking because of old gaskets, stuck needle valve or sunk float. Kit will fix that..........OR they leak due to warped bottom and tops. Not an easy fix. More gaskets/thicker gasket will add to the problem. Lay the gasketed surfaces on glass or marble counter top and test for flat. No space between glass and casting and no rocking. If warped, skip the kit and reconnoiter.
"A Ford and his money are soon parted."
