The stovebolt engine is long and heavy, so don't cut corners when buying a stand. The ones with 4 wheels are much safer and more stable than the 3-wheel T-shaped type, and take ALL the stuff off the back of the block (even that PG mounting ring) before bolting the engine up to the stand. I use a piece of 1/2" X 2" steel flat bar about 18" long bolted across the two upper bellhousing bolt holes to let the upper arms of an engine stand spread out a little, and shim the lower arms out 1/2" with flat washers to keep the engine level. Position the round pivot pipe a few inches above the centerline of the crankshaft to avoid a dangerous top-heavy flop when turning the engine over to remove the oil pan.
Jerry
