Update and questions-> First, thanks everybody for trying to help. You all raised some good points, such as 6v or 12v if I have to replace.
Deve- thanks for that page. I printed it off to read, and it will help.
Per the update, I went out with my meter just to make sure the battery is ok (it is), then checked for power coming in from the ammeter/key switch, which is still good, too. (Truck died last spring, and it turned out to be a bad wire between the key switch at the ammeter connection and the starter/ballast). Ballast is good, too. And I tried again to hit the actual starter button on the starter, by-passing the foot pedal and linkage, no go. So here are my questions, then...
A) How do you tell if a starter is 6v or 12v if there is no tag on it?
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/411608165.jpgB) What is the nail looking thing in the pic of the drive housing? Is that supposed to be there, or did I somehow pick up a nail that may have done something. (I've changed a lot of different starters, but never noticed anything like that before, and since I can't find any sign of an outer hole or mounting bushing, I'm stumped as to what it is and what it's for, if it actually belongs there.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1373/13685773/24611517/411608164.jpgC) Is there really a way to adjust the starter linkage, had it been that? It looks to me that all joints are pinned. I don't see anything that could be adjusted. I also now understand that the linkage puts the starter drive shaft and pinion into the correct position for the start. Would this cause a no start if something there were not engaging, even if the starter switch was manually pushed down? (doesn't seem like it, but thought I'd ask)
D) Since my go-to electrical motor gal has retired, I'm not sure who I could take it to for a rebuild. Is it possible for someone who is mechanically minded to safely rebuild one of these (after testing it), or should I just bite the bullet and send for one? OR- how to spot a good rebuilder of old stuff without being sorry I didn't just get one?? After years of seeing what cheap foreign rebuilders consider acceptable work, I fear paying the $150, not to mention the $125 core charge plus shipping it back to Classicparts, while I wait. (Too bad this didn't happen 2 weeks ago when I sold my Millermatic 251 welder instead of a few days before the first of the month, when my Geezer Goldmine (pension check) comes in. Ok, then, I'd like to go out and pull that starter, but I'm going to wait to hear from you all for your opinions and sage advice. Thanks again for all the help, guys. I really appreciate it. Lee
