The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk A Tech Tip I submitted for E-Z Bushing Removal

I could not pull my 1965 control arm bushing metal insert out with a pliers and they do not cut easily with a knife or razor. The instructions that came with my replacement polyurethane bushings said to BURN the old ones out! Yikes!

I tried to burn them and they just don't burn well.

Here's my solution. I had them out in under 5 minutes each. (I don't have any other tools such as a press.)

Just 7 pics.

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP1900.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2000.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2100.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2200.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2300.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2400.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP2500.jpg

Good tip!

So without a press how do you plan to get the new ones back in?

I made a tool to remove/install them with a piece of pipe, some heavy washers, and a grade 8 - bolt and nut.

Here is a sketch of it.

You're quite the artist there Vern.

Similar idea - Tech Tip - bushing puller

Change the pipe diameter and bolt/head diameter for different jobs; and, the same hardware can be used to pull the new bushing into place.

This one is set up to remove/replace a spring bushing.

That was much easier than going out to the garage in this heat to take a picture.

What did you do about the outer steel shell of the bushing? I guess a hacksaw could be used to slot it so it will collapse?
Jerry

Those polyurethane ones reuse the outer shell I think. That's why I went for the originals on my Barracuda.

Being fairly new at all this, I opened the box of polyurethane bushings (which includes the metal tube insert) and simply removed the same parts from the control arm as the ones that came in the box.
I never knew there was any outer steel shell. Come to think of it, I guess the shell is seen in the last photo and it has a flange on both sides and seems permanently attached to the control arm. Anyway, it sure doesn't budge. I cleaned and prepared it for POR15. The polyurethane bushings come as 2 pieces and simply hand press into place using the grease supplied in the kit.

News to me- - -but I always use original equipment parts whenever possible. The original bushing is flanged on only one side, and press-fits into the control arm. The rubber bushings are supposed to be bonded to both steel sleeves, and the suspension movement is absorbed by the rubber part flexing. I can't imagine why the polyurethane bushings would be used, if the control arm just rotates over it. I've changed hundreds of suspension bushings, and never left half a bushing in the control arm!
Jerry

Jerry,
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. I'm sure that I've installed my new bushings correctly, yet am always willing to learn from others.
I'm in the process of doing the driver's side now, so I'll post a few pics.
Jay

Check out the picture- - - -an original equipment bushing is bonded together- - -outer sleeve, rubber, and inner sleeve. So far you have removed 2/3 of the bushing and left the outer sleeve in place.

http://www.automedia.com/Content/Articles/Images/res/res20011101br/res20011101br00.jpg?

The movement of the bushing is supposed to happen between the bonded parts with the rubber doing the flexing. With the polyurethane "bushings" the control arm is just sliding over the surface of the plastic, not flexing like a rubber bushing does.
Jerry

Pretty sure the inner spacer pivots in the polyurethane shell on this replacement piece.

Jerry, I think you are saying that the inner and outer metal sleeves do not move where they contact the rubber bushing in the original OEM design. I can only imagine that the tight pressure fit of metal against rubber is what prevents movement between these parts (in relation to one another). Vertical, horizontal and front to back forces are absorbed by the elastic properties of the bushing. Axial rotation is allowed via the bolt through the inner sleeve. As I examine this polyurethane setup, I cannot see how the mechanical properties of the bushing have changed.




Here are some more pics of the polyurethane (PU) bushings and inner sleeve. The original bushing assembly outer sleeve remained inside the control arm. Using a rubber mallet, I whacked the larger PU piece into place and then pressed the smaller section onto the other side. Last, I inserted the new inner sleeve.

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP3000.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP3100.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP3200.jpg

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/...20Chevy%20C10/Bushing%20Post/BRP3300.jpg

OK, as long as you're satisfied with it. I'll stick to the way the engineers designed the suspension system.
Jerry

They work fine-mine have been there 10+ yrs now.

I have read on the H.A.M.B. site about these type of bushings squeaking, does the instructions say anything about greasing them?

The original bushing has the inner and outer metal bonded to together. The inner bushing is held tight to the axle or frame and the outer shell is held tight to the arm. You get some control of movement from this setup, sorta like a built in shock absorber. The poly design will be looser compared to the OEM, but will function as a bushing just fine. And if the fit is tight enough to squeeze the poly, it will function just the same.

Joe

Joe,
Yes, a small tube of graphite grease is included in the kit. I sure hope they don't squeak. Of course, rubber can squeak too sometimes, I guess.
Anyway, I'm glad to hear that others have used them with good success.

It's kinda funny, but this thread was intended to show an easy way to remove the old bushings, not about the merits of one type of bushing over another. As for me, I'm gonna give the poly ones a try.

On that, I'll just say that I hope people find my suggested way to remove the old bushing is straightforward and easier than other methods.
Jay

Post get changed this way some times. What through everyone was the fact the kit used the old outer shell, I know I have never seen one like that.

Your tip is a good one and may help a lot builder who don't have a lot of equipment. After just changing out some OEM a-arm bushings on a GTO, I hear to tell you your way sure would have been easier! My arms are still tired from swinging a hammer.


Joe

Joe, the pros use an air chisel with a series of special-shaped bits. It really helps meet or beat the flat rate time for bushing changes. What I used to hate to deal with was the badly worn control arms somebody tried to salvage by tack-welding new bushings into them. Once I found something like that, the control arms got trashed.
Jerry

The polyurethane bushings have been very popular in the performance car market for at LEAST 20 years that I know of. They don't work the same as the factory ones, they provide less deflection of the suspension components, (thus their popularity in the performance car market) and possibly a little louder, harsher ride (the trade off for performance.) But they work very well. The factory did very little because it was the best right thing to do, if it gave even marginally satisfactory performance and was cheap that is what they were after. Just good enough to not have too many warranty repairs, and good enough so the regulars didn't defect to the competition. After that is was just money that dictated design.