The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
5 members (KCMongo, TUTS 59, Gray_Ghost, IHPWR, 49choptop), 106 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,034
Posts1,055,540
Members48,425
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#759167 07/02/2011 4:26 AM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
I installed a mason jar as a coolant recovery container. The radiator will flow coolant into the bottle but will not recover it. I am using a 7 pound pressure cap. The mason jar has a 2 quart capacity with a vent to the atmosphere. No doubt I have done something wrong and need some advice. I used AN fittings into the original mason jar cap. The tube that connects to the radiator goes all the way to the bottom of the jar. Does the system have to be air tight to work?


Weeds

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
maybe what it's pushing out is the amount you've overfilled it .... a 283[?] with a stock-ish rad and a 7# cap won't/shouldn't get hot enough to need a recovery system, just don't fill the rad to the top and it'll quit pushing anything out

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
I would think it would have to be sealed to draw the water back in or it just draws air from the out side.


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by WE b OLD
I would think it would have to be sealed to draw the water back in or it just draws air from the out side.
I think that Ron is correct. The GM accessory unit either has parts/instructions to convert the radiator cap, or it provides an appropriate cap. See figure 12.

Up to 1954, track radiator caps were often 0 psi pressure (except for big trucks, in some models/years). So, there would be no need for a modification in a truck/radiator that has a zero pressure cap.

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
The recovery tank cannot be air tight. If it was then when the vehicle is running the recovery tank would be pressurized just like the radiator and that's a bad thing, especially since you are using a glass container!

It sounds like it is set up correctly. The tube that goes to the radiator goes thru the recovery tank lid down to the bottom of the recovery tank. The other opening in the cap serves as a vent. The radiator pukes fluid into the recovery tank and then when the engine is off and the radiator starts to cool down the vacuum that results from the cooling will suck the fluid, via the submerged tube, back out of the recovery tank.

It's no different than drinking Coca-Cola from a straw. As long as the straw is submerged in the Coca-Cola you can suck the Coca-Cola out of the bottle. If you somehow had the straw in the bottle and the pop bottle was sealed you couldn't suck the Coca-Cola out 'cause you would be inducing a vacuum into the bottle.



Last edited by Hot Rod John; 07/02/2011 3:42 PM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
I am really confused now. Hot Rod John says vent, WEbOLD says don't vent. Any other opinions?


Weeds

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
H
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,262
I think the confusion is due to defining what you want the tank to do.

Check this out: http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/overflow.htm

The use of an overflow tank (vented non-pressurized) is done for environmental reasons. It prevents a slightly overfilled radiator system from venting onto the ground.

The use of an expansion tank (pressurized), with a conventional radiator, adds a very small amount of additional coolant to the system.

Hope that helps! thumbs_up

John

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 07/02/2011 4:09 PM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
if the system was sealed the recovery container would have the same positive and negative pressures as the rad and engine [which use a 14# cap or higher], I doubt the usual plastic reservoirs would stand that, let alone a mason jar [as John explains]

I'm pretty sure Weeds is running a 283, and states he has a 7# cap, a 283 with a 7# cap shouldn't normally run much over the thermostat rating, so will not generate the temps and pressures necessary to make a modern style recovery system function, it needs the more extreme contraction to draw the water back from the tank

283's blowing off a bit has been the subject of threads here before, and it's invariably a situation of filling the rad to the top when cold instead of leaving enough head space for expansion .... I'm sure if the bottle were emptied without topping off the rad, it wouldn't "flow coolant into the bottle" again wink

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,132
John, thanks for the link explaining the differences between the 2 systems. I thought they were one and the same. Bill, I am running a 283 and your explanation gets rid of the confusion on my part. The quantity of coolant in the mason jar has stabilized at about half full so I won't add any more coolant to the radiator. My education continues and this Stovebolt site is like old truck college.


Weeds

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,095
after reading the other responses i was wrong. the coke analogy works.


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
In the Gallery
2017 Buick Encore
See more pix
1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

The 47-55 overflow tank (Radiator Overflow Condenser) is not air tight. It has an inflow pipe from the radiator and another pipe/hose to equalize pressure.

I also forgot that Weeds is not referring to an original overflow set-up.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0