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| | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2010 Posts: 132 | When I install the 305 sbc, and 700r4, I will be using the two front engine mounts, and the rear transmission crossmember mount. Will these three points be enough? Or should I consider a mid-mount at the bellhousing?
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | The 3-point mount setup is what's used in modern applications of that same engine/trans so the assembly will be supported well enough, but don't completely remove the center crossmember where the bellhousing mounts would normally be located. It stabilizes the frame at the leaf spring rear pivot points. You'll probably have to reshape that crossmember for clearance, however.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | If you are considering using the "bird leg" mounts on the front of the engine, you cannot do it that way. The latter model factory mounts in about the center of the engine are OK like HRL says.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I have the small block/700R4 in my panel. I used engine side mounts and rear tranny cross member. So far so good.
However, it was after I had cut all the original center cross member out that I realized what Jerry mentions above about leaving the ends where the front spring pivots at the rear. After I wised up I've kept check on that area and no cracks so far. However, I do need to add a plate there and will next time I'm under it...or fab up something from tubing.
Jerry, thanks for mentioning that. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Mounted on the front stands and trans tail housing puts a lot of stress on the bell housing. I've seen cracked aluminum ones. On 55-57 Chevy's we leave the front stands in place while we fab up side mounts and rear cross member. With side mounts you can raise the tail housing by hand to slip in a new mount cushion but with front mounts only the entire weight of the engine and trans has to be lifted to put in a cushion. Much more stress on everything. They are offering bell housing mounts that fit all the regular Chevy bell housings, 265-454 and 4.3 V6, bolt to the factory frame brackets, and use the block mount starter.
Evan
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 54 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 54 | | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | McGaughy's for one, #63209. We have a 55 in the shop that has an even sleeker looking pair that fits to the factory horns on the frame but can't find a name or number on them. They have the bell housing piece bonded with rubber to the piece that's bolted to the horn just like factory ones. The McGaughy ones are a much stronger design if one is running a salty engine.
Evan
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