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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
K
New Guy
New Guy
K Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
Hey guys, I knew my cab needed a little work when I bought the truck, but the more I look and research, the more concerned I am...

The floor is rusted through in the valley where the floor meets the rocker panel on both sides, the right side is worse than the left. Also I am a little concerned with the cab mounts. My main goal is to get the cab to a point where it will pass a safety inspection, but I also want it to be done right.

Here are the pics:
Right Rear Cab Mount The previous owner added a plate underneath for strength

Right side Floor/Rocker

Right Side Floor Previous owner riveted in some sloppy patches

Right Side Floor/Rocker

Left Rear Cab Mount

Left Rear Cab Mount

Left Front Cab Mount

Left Front Cab Front

OK, so now here is my questions. Do you think the cab mounts and cab supports need to be replaced? I assume the cab would have to come off the frame to do that. If that is necessary, can I just lift it 8 in and replace what needs to be done? My garage space is limited.
LMC sells something called "Outer Floor Ext" is this what I need to repair the floor?

Thanks a lot for the help guys. I have a welder and am learning as I go. Body work is not my favourite, but I recognize it as a necessary evil.

Last edited by koop85; 01/12/2014 11:57 PM.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
Any chance of you finding another cab? From your pictures, this one is pretty bad. I have fixed worse, but I would have been way ahead in money for just the replacement panels and welding supplies if I had looked for another cab in better shape. In saying this, I am not including my time in the cost.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
K
New Guy
New Guy
K Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
Well good cabs are harder to find in Canada and from the outside it doesn't look all that bad. Also the center of the floor is all good too. Its just the outside bottom that needs the work. I don't have a big budget for this project but I am willing to put in the hours if it needs it.

I'm just wanting to get it safety inspected and on the road for the time being.

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
A lot of work ahead of you for sure. I say new complete floor and rockers for sure. Add in a few mount reinforcement pieces and maybe you can then pass inspection. Lots of work for sure.

Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,399
D
Gas Pumper
Gas Pumper
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,399
The project I am working on now... most people would have tossed this cab because everyone would agree its too far gone. Nothing from the floor down was salvageable, toeboard was shot, inside and outside panels, you name it. I was so adamant because 5 window cabs are hard to find and at the time, they didn't make the 5 window upgrade parts. I mention this because you can do it! smile


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
More info and tips at Deve's Technet
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
K
New Guy
New Guy
K Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
Thanks Deve, I appreciate the vote of confidence!

The way I understand it, it is almost impossible to get one completely rust free anyway. If I take my time and cut out all the rust I think I will be farther ahead in the long run.

Now, to replace the cab supports I assume I will have to lift the body... How terrible is that going to be? Does anyone have any tips?

Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,001
I fabricated a gantry crane from 4x4's and a steel cross tube. In this photo, my son and I just finished using it to install the engine. I also used it to hoist the cab. I made a simple frame out of 2x4 that went through both cab door openings. I used ratchet straps over the hoist beam to lift the cab (one on each side).

The chain loop in the middle of the crane beam is where I hooked the chain hoist for lifting the engine. The crane was plenty stable and strong. The braces are electrical conduit.

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
Probably be better to leave it on the frame wouldn't it? To help hold alignment and lessen chance of twisting when locating and welding in panels.

John


Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
K
New Guy
New Guy
K Offline
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 16
I mean to replace the cab mounts and cab supports underneath. Do I need to raise the cab? Also, I don't want to take off the fenders unless I absolutely have to. Has anybody else done this?

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
Just looking at your pictures, I would say the cab mounts and floor areas around them need to be addressed. The left rear looks like there isn't much holding there.
Not sure if you can do the work without removing the front fenders or not. if you need to replace the rockers then I'd say you would. I believe originally there was a lip that turned up where the floor and rockers meet??? I guess you might just patch the rockers and leave the front fenders on....
John

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,059
I would do the repairs on the truck frame. You will have to jack up one side at a time to repair/replace your cab mount metal.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

Moderated by  klhansen 

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