Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
2 members (Gray_Ghost, Joe W),
211
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,108 Posts1,056,231 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 34 | What all should I replace on an early 50s rearend? I know things like pinion seals, wheel bearings, and brakes but how far down do I go? Do the bearings clear down in the differential get replaced? the pinion bearings? I am new at this so please explain when you answer. Thanks.
GCZ | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy zinkschevy, you won't know for sure what needs to be replaced until you dis-assemble, clean and inspect everything. Check before dis-assembling to see if there is any clearance in the bearings, there should be none, the bearings should have a slight preload to them, both on the pinion and the ring gear. Any play could indicate worn bearings to the point that they require replacement. If when you have everything dis-assembled and cleaned you posted pictures, we could look at the bearings and give our opinions on their serviceability. Most overhaul books have pictures of bearing wear that you can compare with, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | If you are tearing it down, just replace all the bearings since you are in there. Especially if you don't know the history of the rear end. Unless bearings are somehow expensive for the old rearends, there is more cost in the labor, and if you are planning to dissassemble, just replace during assembly, there is no extra effort, just some marginal cost. Then you know what you have and you have new parts for your normal wear items.
I don't know about the older ones, but on more popular rear ends they will sell a rebuild kit that basically has everything you need in it. Pinion bearings, crush sleeves, carrier and wheel bearings, bearing races, gaskets, even the marking compound to check the gear wear faces.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | First drive the truck & listen for noises like whining or growling. Then pull the cover & like 3B says check for play in the bearings. If everything looks good redo the brakes, wheel cylinders & wheel grease seals. Inspect the axle shafts where the brgs ride on. There should be no pits in them. If it is a closed drive shaft there is no pinion seal. You don't want to go further then you have to. Setting up the rear end is a tedious job & if not done right will cause trouble.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | Wrenchbender gave you better advice than I did. Don't tear it down if you don't have to, especially if you don't have the means to reassemble, with pinion bearing pre-load and gear lash you need special tools and more than NAPA know-how.
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction)
1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 34 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 34 | Well the truck doesn't run and I already tore down so I think we can dimiss driving and hearing sounds. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | zinkschevy,
Are your referring to a pre-1954 1/2 ton enclosed drive-shaft rear end?
If so, since you have already disassembled the rear-end, you might want to considered the option of changing to 3.55 Ring & Pinion gears (about $250 from Mothertrucker, including shipping, I think).
Patrick's also sells that gear-set and he separately sells an installation kit of bearings/bushings/seals. That installation kit might be of interest to you, no matter what you do with your torque-tube rear-end.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 | I have found that these rearends will let you know if something is wrong when you drive them, like noises and leaks. I know you already took it apart, but there are other readers who could benefit from the advice to run it first before you tear it down. I would also advise others to drain and refill the lube before testing it. Zink, you're already neck deep in it, go for it!
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 19 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 19 | A quick call to quick performance wouldnt hurt unless you want to keep stock. Talk with Brydon. He is amazing with building a rear to suit you. I got this for my 1958 chevy 1/2
$680 - 9" Housing/Axle Package (58 Chevy Truck - Leaf Spring - Custom)
- New Axles, Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers
- 31 Spline, Choice of Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs
$820 - Center Section (Assembled)
- New 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi
- New Motive Performance Gears (Choice of Ratio)
- New Timken USA Bearings
Disc brakes -Wilwood
Taxes in I was in for about 1800.00-2000.00. His perchs are spot on. Bolted right in with a 1330 series yoke.
Not saying do this but its a good option for you. Sure beats a 4000.00 12 bolt gm Moser rear | | |
|
|
