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| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | I don't notice any back and forth movement but I can move the tie rod up and down on the ball stud. I believe the cup pieces are moving inside the housing and this is not a condition where the cups are loose to the ball itself. The following is a link to a short video clip showing the movement. Thank you for your help. Joe tie rod ends
Last edited by mendonjo; 01/05/2014 10:53 PM.
1955 First Series 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | That definitely is bad. You can take it apart & see what is worn or often the spring in it is broken. This would be a good time to change to the newer style.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I agree with George, Make sure you look the ball over also, its probably chewed up also. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 217 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 217 | Just did mine and the old drivers side ball was worn oval, alot! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | If the ends are rebuildable, there are repair parts kits and replacement ball-studs. The original design is safe and strong, and the original fittings are adjustable.
Of course, the newer style sealed replacement parts are just as good.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 277 | Thanks guys, I will plan on doing a rebuild or replace. I have read the tech tips and I believe the only tough part is removing the old ball-stud because it was peened in. I will probably go with the new style and will replace the drag link at the same time (it feels rough).
Joe
1955 First Series 3100
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