The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Rusty Frame. What to do?

Well after a couple years, I'm finally getting started on my '41 1 1/2 ton. I pulled the bed off and found that the frame wasn't in as good a shape as I thought. The wood beams that attach the bed must have trapped moisture, and the frame stiffeners are pillowed and have also trapped dirt and moisture.

First of all, my plan for the truck s a 4x4 and Cummins 6BT conversion, so I'm not too attached to the original frame, but I did have some thoughts of keeping the original leaf springs as they seem kinda cool to me. I also don't want to compromise the GVWR of the truck; although I probably won't haul too much with it.

So ti seems lie have 3 options.
1- Frame swap with a modern 3/4 or 1-ton chassis.
2 - Repar the frame I have.
3 - Start from scratch and build a new frame..

think I'm leaning toward option 1 as the simplest, but I'm looking for feedback. Here are some pictures of the rust:

Whole Frame Top of Rght Frame Rail
Top of Left Frame Rail
Insde of Rght Frame Rail
Insde of Left Frame Rail

The issue with a modern frame is that they are usually to wide. I'd start measuring and see what you can find if you are set in going that direction.

kert,
I have a 1 1/2 ton coming tomorrow and may end up getting rid of the frame after I finish robbing parts for my other project but that will be in the future couple of months probably depending upon weather. I know that this will belong in the 'swap' section at the appropriate time but is something to think about. Don't know how good mine will be as it is 2 hours away and have not gone over it with a fine tooth comb but will know more soon. Something to think about in the future .....
lane

OK now I remember the frame with issue from when I was researching a few years ago. The will also make it difficult to mount a front axle for my 4x4 conversion with the existing frame. After getting the front cop off, it seems like the biggest issue with a frame swap is mounting the cab since the front clip is only attached to the frame at the front cross member. Since I'm doing a 4x4 conversion, it may not be a big deal to do a body lift and just mount the cab on top of the frame.

I think I'm going to keep my eyes open for a donor chassis from a newer 4x4 dually and see if I can make it work.

Kert,
After looking at my new-old ton and half I find that the frame seems rustier than the photos you posted. Your idea about mounting the cab on top of frame and doing a body lift is probably good as there seem to be few un-rusty frames out there. Good luck!
lane

Maybe rebuild the rear frame sections with some "C" channel.

Here's some factory specs.


http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/53129.htm

Hey Kert --- don't know what part of the country you are in but I have a long WB either '41 or '42 frame that is in very good shape free for the taking. Only has surface rust from the last 3 months outdoors. Has front & rear axles, no wheels on front but a pair on the dually rear. I'm in Houston, TX. May have one taker in line ahead of you but doubt it will happen.

Shoot me a PM if interested.

looks really good compared to the frame on mine haha.

The frame on my 47 1.5 ton was rusted through or pitted deep all along where the deck sat but good everywhere else. I ground it out and filled it with weld and ground and filed it flat. I used a rod welder at about 90 amps. A modern mig welder would be better. This was not difficult.
I removed two cross members by drilling the rivets. This was to fix some rust. Local rules allow me to bolt them in with high tensile bolts. If any inspector asks I will act dumb, it was done years ago, lost in the mists of time.
Use heavy zinc high build primer. It hides rough finishes and protects well.
Main issue I had was if a rust hole went to the edge of the frame then the weld would cool and shrink and pull the frame out of line. In these cases cut out the bad bit with a jigsaw (hard on the saw and you) and cut a fresh patch the same shape from quarter inch stock. Bevel the edges 45 degrees and weld in. This is the easiest method for any big hole, rather than laying out multiple fillets of weld.
I found my frame wasn't hard to fix, just a lot of work.