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#994385 12/23/2013 5:43 PM
Joined: Aug 2013
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New Guy
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I'm trying to adjust the shifter on my '54 so that it won't hit the steering wheel when going into 1st or Rev. I've got it all disassembled for cleaning and now I have question.
The inner top end of the actual shift rod has a bend at the end, where the lever slips over it and attaches to the pivot point. Is this bend supposed to be in the neighborhood on 90*, or is it supposed to be at somewhat of a lesser angle?

I'm thinking at some point in the trucks past,it's possible that the linkage bound up and some big football player type put enough force on the shifter to straighten it up a bit. That would cause the lever to be too close to the wheel in the 1st/Rev position.

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Renaissance Man
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See the factory shop manual. This adjustment is made by loosening the clamp that holds the shifter box to the steering mast (under the hood) and sliding it up or down the mast until you get the specified clearance. Try to avoid over-thinking it. It will give you the clearance.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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New Guy
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The thing kind of shifted half way when I bought it. Shift lever hit the wheel in 1st and rev. I adjusted the box on the mast trying to fix this until it wouldn't shift at all(fix it 'til it's broke). That's when I started taking it all apart and found the coupler and upper rod had been modified. Then I looked in the assembly manual and the picture of the upper rod showed a much sharper angle than the one that's on the truck.
Also seems like there's a bit of adjustment at the top where the pivot screws into the upper clamp?
If it messes with me much more, it's getting a floor shifter. It's my wife's truck and she said she wouldn't mind a floor shift, she's used to it in her Jeep.


Just checked service manual and tried to adjust the linkage. Even with the shifter box disconnected from the upper linkage completely, I can't get the 2 13/16" distance from the steering wheel that the book calls for. That upper shaft being bent has to be the cause. Of course I can't find a supplier. Floor shifter looking better all the time.

Last edited by Old_Crow; 12/24/2013 6:35 PM. Reason: added info
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Shop Shark
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If you post some pictures of what you have going on we can probably get this sorted out for you.

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New Guy
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Lets see if I can figure this out. Ignore the beer bottle...that was from a late night planning session ;-)
First picture. Shifter in 2-3 position. Book says 2 13/16" from wheel to shifter...I've got 1 1/2"

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz225/walliscrow/Vinces/DSC00970_zps08c6086f.jpg

second picture, Rev-1st position. Shifter hits wheel,

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz225/walliscrow/Vinces/DSC00973_zps9ccb01a1.jpg

These pictures were taken with the lower shift box disconnected so adjusting the box isn't the problem. I can make it shift, but it's hard to drive in 1st-Rev with the shifter hitting the wheel. My money is on the upper shaft being bent. Already have feelers out at the local wrecking yard.

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'Bolter
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Many things get changed on these vehicles over the years. Someone may have replaced the upper shift arm with one from a 57-59 truck. The later TF trucks use a deep dish wheel and the shifter is angled to match more closely with the wheel. See if you can find a shift lever from an earlier truck and it could solve your problem.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
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New Guy
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Hmm, that might fit.
When I took it apart to see if I could figure it out I found that the clamp between the upper shaft and the box had been modified, as had the lower end of the upper shaft. I've nn-modified the clamp and gotten some of my adjustment back. It's better now, not right, but better.
I'd rather fix what I've got if possible. I've been looking at the floor shifters and (showing my age here)the days of the $50-$60 Hurst shifter seem to have gone the way of the dodo bird.

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Shop Shark
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@Old Crow, This might be a good time for an overdrive T-5. Look up "Lugnutz"on the '60-'66 board and read his excellent work on T-5s. It may give you some ideas, anyway. Just my 2 cents.

Best wishes,

Les

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New Guy
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Maybe later. Right now it's a complete running truck with minor problems like the shifter. Once we drive it like that for a while we'll see what we want to change.

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Old Crow, I bought a 3 spd floor shift from Tennesee Speed Sport at the recommendation from a fellow bolter. $39.95 and after receiving it can't wait to put it in and try it out. After looking at it I believe it's the same one I used on my old Task Force trucks back in the 70's. Worked great then and I don't think I'll be disappointed now. Try calling them at 1 800 406 8948. When I ordered mine the salesman said he had like a thousand in stock. Larry


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Another thing to check is the upper support for the shifter. When the pivot starts to pull out of the mount it can cause clearance issues.

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https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/10225/Chevrolet_Bracket_Supports_Top_Of_Shift_Tube.html

Here is a picture of a upper support, the one pictured is for a Car.


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