The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Switching Cluster from Idiots to Gauges.

Hey all, first electrical post. I have a question on switching out the instrumnet cluster on a 1960 C-10 from the idiot light type to full gauge type. My question is if I take the plug for the "Amp" light on my idiot cluster and plug it into the volt gauge on my new cluster, will it work? Also what would I need to convert my Oil idiot light to the Oil gauge. Looks like I need a tube but I have no clue what I need for it as in parts to hook the oil tube to the engine...HELP!-Danny

The wire to the AMP light should go to the accessory terminal on your ignition switch. Is the gauge a voltage gauge or is it an ammmeter? The wire for it could also come from the accessory terminal if it is a voltmeter.

Well I can't tell what it is for sure. It's whatever the stock gauge is on a 1960-63 all gauge cluster. the gauge says "Batt" and has a D for discharge and a C for charge.

the one thing I noticed is that the plug is the same for both types, gauge/idiotlight

You have an ammeter then and you won't use the idiot light wires for it. You'll need to splice it into the large wire running between the regulator and the battery post on the starter. This is assuming there is no terminal block on the truck.

For the oil pressure you need to see if it is a mechanical gauge or electric gauge. Either way you can't use the sending unit for the light. You say it looks like you need a tube. If it's a threaded fitting with a small hole in it, it does. Your local auto parts place or hardware store can fix you up with the tubing and fittings for it.

To elaborate on what Cletis wrote: the wire that went from the regulator to the battery post on the starter should now go from the regulator to the negative side of the ammeter. The same size wire should go from the battery post on the starter to the positive side of the ammeter.

You should of got the wire harness to with the cluster. The oil pressure is mechanical, you will need to run an oil line from were the oil sensor is. You will also have to replace the temp sender. Get a wiring diagram and check the difference from idiot to full gauge.

Larry

why would I have to replace the temp sensor as well?

the temp sender for a light only will be an "on-off" deal, the one for the gauge will be "variable", to indicate the full range of temps

Bill

Ah I get it, my idiot gauge did have a fuel and full temp gauge, but I understand where ya coming from

How would you wire the amp gauge to an internal(2 wire) alt. And will the fuel, temp plug and play?

The only thing that may plug and play would be fuel. For the rest to plug and play you need to replace both the cluster wire harness and the harness under the dash. Your other choices are a new after market wire harness or find a wiring diagram and modify.

Larry

I'm in the process of doing the same thing but I don't know what my 'guage' cluster came out of. One thing I am concerned about is whether it may have come out of a 6 volt rig. If so, am I going to fry the ammeter when I hook it up to 12 volts? My truck is a 1962 c-30 so what are the possibilities as far as the 'donor' truck being a 6 volt?

Not good, Chevy switched to 12 volts in 55/56?.

The AMP gauge won't care if it is 6 or 12 volts.

Everything that has been said previously still applies. Hopefully you can get back to the donor truck and pull the wire harnesses or have a wire diagram.

Larry

I hate to say it, but the donor truck went to a crusher a couple years ago... That much I do know.

Get yourself a wire diagram. My factory manual has diagrams for both idiot and the gauge dash.

Larry