The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline E350 rear end for Chevy 48 3/4

I have a 1948 Chevy ¾ ton and I want to change the rear axle to an E350 giving my truck more “giddy up and go”. After buying it I got it home and began to closely inspect it. I see that the yoke does not appear to be centered on the axle. Is this going to work on my 48? I know I will need to get different rims and remount the spring perches. I am concerned that the drive shaft will not align with the yoke on the E350.
Am I incorrect in saying that the yoke is not centered on the axle?

Hy Solrak, welcome, I don't think driveshaft alignment will be a problem, the stock wheels may even fit the axle as well, but the idea of F@#d parts under a Chevy, it gives me the willies just thinking about it.

Won't be a problem. I'll bet that if you check, you'll find that original Eaton isn't exactly centered either. As far as wheels, the bolt pattern will be the same, but you might run into issues with the center bore. generally speaking, the GM trucks have a smaller index bore than the Fords, and have a similar difference in the hub sizes as well.

Wheels ought to interchange with no trouble, you'll know for sure when you try.

Driveshaft is not an issue other than checking length and adjusting as necessary.

If the mixed marriage of a Ford part on a Chevy is disturbing, just keep in mind that the E350 housing is technically produced by Sterling.

Or if older it's probably a Dana 60 which GM, dodge, IH, and others also used

I wonder how many Ford 9" rearends are under Chevy's. I also wonder how many Chevy engines are in Fords. Seems as though hot-rodders aren't necessarily brand loyal.

I put the rear end from a 69' F250 in my 49' 3600. Worked out great. Had to weld up different spring perches and have the drive shaft shortened a bit and the U joint yoke changed to the match the F250 yoke. The pumpkin is offset like yours is. I have 3.73 gearing now and it runs great.

Unless it's from a dual wheel E350, it will be a Dana 60.

The rear axle is a Dana 60. I would much rather just replace the "pumpkin" but I am not able to locate one and then it would probably be a 4:11. I don't have any plans on using the truck other than driving around town for fun.
I also bought a GM C&C dual wheel axle for its narrow with but it looks like a monster rear end and probably will not use it.
Thanks for all the impute and insight.

Nope. They are speed loyal.

If your Dana 60 is a full floater, keep your 14 bolt hubs. You can use them on the Dana if you need to narrow it up. You'll have to have custom axle shafts made to fit though and change your wheel seals. Your Eaton HO52 hubs will work also, You'll have to change out the wheel bearings though and use custom shafts and different seal.

I think on the vans the engine sits over to the pass side a little so you might need to look at a truck rear end to be a little more centered,my 37 has some Ford parts on it too and might get Ford powered if I cant find a good GM motor to put in it. The only good GM motors I ever had were Olds or Buicks so when the 235 finally goes and I cant find a running nailhead or 49 to 58 Olds rocket a 300 six might go in.

300 6, just plain wrong.

The pinion being offset some is not a problem at all. The driveshaft will be fine if not parallel to the truck centerline. Here's a tech tip with resources explaining driveline setup, how to measure the compound angle, and how to figure the U-joint operating angle.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.html

Grigg