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#9933 08/21/2003 11:37 PM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 99
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 99
I remember this topic being discussed in the past, but because it never really affected me I didn't pay too much attention smile I recently realized that the lower rubber oil line (coming from the filter) is leaking and I would like to replace it. The engine is a 235 and has a filter with two rubber lines running to it. Is this stock or aftermarket? I really would like to keep the filter, but I'm having a hard time locating new lines. If I decide to remove the filter (at least for the time being) can I plug both holes or would that cut off my oil supply? Any help would be greatly appreciated! (By the way, my truck is really coming along! Sometime soon I will try to post pictures of my adventures smile )


Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
#9934 08/22/2003 1:28 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Could be stock (AC) or aftermarket (Fram) and could be from a variety of years/styles. Dealer would install what they had on hand and owners might have installed whatever they found available over the past 50 years. Most of these filter canisters used lines with compatible fittings.

Most of the restoration parts suppliers sell these lines. They all seem to sell 14" and 18" pairs. I would prefer to have 14" and 24" pairs. Look for "Oil Lines, Rubber" in the catalog of the sponsor of this site.

http://www.americanclassic.com/asp/...;iyear=1954&ytype=to&exyear=1954

Tim

#9935 08/22/2003 3:15 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
You should also be able to buy the hoses at an auto part store. Just have the old ones in hand and clean enough to measure.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#9936 08/22/2003 5:55 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 506
Good time to go for stainless braded pressure and return oil lines. Take the lines over to a place that makes hydraulic hoses and ask them to duplicate.


"Drugs are money, money is power, power is security." - Kent Heiner
Nedrow population 2212
Carbon footprint family of 2/11 tonnes of CO2/yr
#9937 08/22/2003 11:17 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 140
G
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
G Offline
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 140
If it's close to stock, it'a a bypass and you can plug the lines. An easy way to check it to plug them with standard brass plumbing fittings, then spin the oil pump with an
electric drill. You should flow oil everywhere, easily. Good way to check oiling in general, IMHO.

It's *possible* but unlikely that the block was modded for full-flow, in which case you should not plug them.

As noted, rubber oil line from autoparts or mailorder will work, so just go ahead and replace'em....

G

#9938 09/06/2003 12:21 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5
5
Member
Member
5 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5
I went to my local hydralic shop and had them make me a set of lines in the length that I needed. They'll handle alot more pressure than what my little 235 will ever make, but theres nothing wrong with that.

#9939 09/06/2003 6:47 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,904
I just returned from the hydraulics supplier with new oil lines for my 261. They are the big ones for full flow and cost $50.48. More than I thought they'd be. NAPA didn't have the fittings. I was thinking about the metal braided ones for protection but I was afraid to ask how much.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
#9940 09/08/2003 3:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 591
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 591
I couldn't find any locally, Chevy Duty (or possibly LMC) did have them. They worked fine.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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