The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Firewall Pictures

I am trying to assemble everything going through the firewall now that the jambs and firewall are painted in my 50. Does anyone have pictures of their firewall that I could reference? I am most concerned with the upper half - with all the grommets for wires, cables, etc. I have the pedals in. Thanks for any help you can give. I got my truck in buckets and boxes.

I'm sure there are pics available. I'll look through mine to see what I have. But, you should really invest in an assembly manual(and shop manual). They are not too expensive and are just a terrific reference source, especially the assembly manual with all its illustrations, including the firewall.

Here are the pictures of mine there are also several in the parts truck section I have. There are roughly 6000+ pictures here with most of them truck related.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129178953/in/set-72157631867396207
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8130477930/in/set-72157631870734114
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157631870734114/

Jumping in with a question also for Brad. I have seen before the different style 4 hole plugs that you show on the blue and red pickup. What I'd like to know is the time or model the covered style plug(red truck) was used? Was it a certain model item only?
I'd like to find a good one some day as I like that style better than just the rubber plug.

The early version with the metal cover and grommet was used from 1947-mid 49 when many of the changes common to the 50' model were introduced.
It attaches with two large screws and the grommet is coped to fit neatly under it.

your 50 should look like this reference pic

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heater hose routing might be a little different depending on type of heater you have

I agree with what was stated above. Factory Assembly Manual is very helpful.


I don't recall but one of the years had some midyear changes. The firewall stamping was a little different and the fuse box and other changes... maybe 49?

Thanks for all the pictures guys. I have a manual but the manuals dont show it like these do. Can someone please confirm which 4 wires/ cables come thru the 4-hole grommet? I suspect oil pressure line, throttle and choke but whats the other one? Thanks

Mechanical temp

Link

DADS50's answer that the temp capillary tube is fourth item through the 4-hole grommet in a 1950 firewall is correct. However, the FAM diagram in his link is for a 1954 firewall, which has different routing than a 1950 truck. I don't know what model year introduced the change.

The four items in a 1950 four-hole grommet are
> Oil gauge pressure pipe
> Capillary tube (temp gauge)
> Choke
> Throttle
(actually, a photo by Denny Graham of an original 1950 firewall shows the four items going through a one-hole grommet)

The speedo cable is in a single hole grommet in a 1950 firewall.

The two different firewall routings were discussed in this thread. The thread has photos of original unrestored 1950 and 1954 firewalls.
> Firewall thread

The 1954 firewall in the FAM diagram shows three items through one of the holes in the firewall of 1954 lefthand drive trucks:
> Speedometer cable
> Oil gauge pressure pipe
> Capillary tube (temp gauge)

And it shows two items through another hole in the firewall of 1954 lefthand drive trucks:
> Choke
> Throttle

- Lonnie

Timing of this thread is good as I am at the stage of restoration where I am starting to run all the items through the firewall of my '52. My question is how are the wires and speedo cable routed in the three welded on clips down by the headlight dimmer switch? Can't find any pictures on the web that show this area. Anyone?

Bookmark Denny's site for great AD pictures

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Perfect, thanks. I do often refer to Denny's photos, but the site is blocked by my company. Hard to find on my phone.

DavidF

Don't know if the speedo cable routing is the same for 1952 as for my 1954.

Here are a couple of pages from the 1954 FAM showing the speedo cable on the toe panel below the firewall. Both pages have the same page number ... Sect 12, Sheet 1.001. The two pages show two different types of clips for the speedo cable. (#3699275 and #3704138 / 3703451) I don't know why.
> Wiring Harness Clip (1)
> Wiring Harness Clip (2)

There is a clip support welded to the toe panel that holds the clip for the speedo cable and wiring harness that travel under the cab floor. A tab on the clip pops into a hole in the clip support.

I used a clip like #3699275 in the "...Clip (1)" image.
> Dual clip for mounting speedo cable and wiring harness onto firewall - American Classic Truck Parts part # FA-113

FWIW, I used this speedo cable:
> 70" metal case speedo cable - American Classic Truck Parts part #SPC-2

- Lonnie

Lonnie:

Thanks. I vaguely remember having two "cables" clipped to the toeboard tab as the FAM indicates (definitely can't remember which style/clip). But, I also was not sure if the speedo cable was clipped into one of the three welded to firewall clips. I see the speedo cable run many different ways on various photos. I also purchased the metal jacket speedo cable as you did.

DavidF

I should have looked at my firewall before I answered your question about the three clips, plus the combo clip for speedo and harness.

Can't guarantee that it's correct, but here is what I ran under each of the clips:
#1 - left clip = wires to brake light switch
#2 - middle clip = wires that travel under the cab and that go through the lower clip with the speedo cable
#3 - right clip = speedo cable
#4 - lower clip = combo clip for speedo and harness that travel under the cab

> photo of the clips on my '54 3104

Make sure that the speedo cable doesn't make sharp bends. Massage it a little after you finish to make the bends as long and slow as possible.

- Lonnie

Thanks again for all the color and pictures everyone. 2 tangible questions I have also are:

1) Do you recommend installing the firewall pad(under dash) before after all of the wires, linkages lines are through the firewall or is there a certain sequence of events there? I know pedals and heaterbox need to be installed after but looking for guidance on suggested sequence.

2) How is the firewall pad held to the firewall? My bare firewall has a few rigid looking pins in it but it doesnt look like they come out.

Can you tellus what pad you intend to use?

I used this abs pad that has a jute backing

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Something like that will have to be test fitted and trimmed a few times. It comes with pins that hold it to the fire wall

Thats what mine looks like. It has the jute pad and is fairly rigid. Are the pins plastic or metal and are they just push pins or threaded? There are what appear to be original pins in my firewall but not exactly sure how they should come out.

The firewall/toeboard factory mounted pins are for the rubber floor mat. The ABS plastic/jute firewall cover is held in place with metal "alligator" fasteners (factory). The fasteners are simply pushed through the cover and into factory holes in the firewall. My cover came with the holes/slots already in the cover and they lined up close enough once the cover was trimmed to fit (width). Some of the common vendors sell the clips.

Cover retainer

Just took a look at my firewall pad

these are the metal clips that I got for the pad. Same as the link above

I ended up not using them

So, what did you use to fasten the pad in place in lieu of the factory clips? Did you bolt the pad in place?

Yes.

After final trim I ran a small bolt and nut up by the wire harness hole
and used the fasteners for the Ranco on the other.

A have a few picture in this Folder

I installed this 3 years ago, I don't recall why I didn't use the clips but I do remember I had the thing out 3 or 4 times trimming

OK, I see you did not use the clips at all and you did not use bolts, screws, or any other fasteners. All those empty narrow slits in the photos of your firewall cover are where the clips are supposed to be. If it stays put, then who needs the clips anyway.

Now that I think of it some more, I may remove all the "alligator" clips and use machine screws, washers and nyloc nuts. I think this approach will help stop water and sound migration into the cab from the holes in the firewall that accept the alligator pins.