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| | | Forums66 Topics128,174 Posts1,057,048 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2013 Posts: 82 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2013 Posts: 82 | My next major project will be to reface my working gauges on my '52 half-ton. I have searched here and found directions on how to do the actual refinish once the gauges are removed. I am just curious how to go about removing them. I took a long look under there today, and it appears that I will need to remove my ignition switch and my speaker grill in order to get access. Can anyone shed any more light on this? And, how does that switch and grill come off?
Thanks, daveboy
'52 Chevy 1/2 ton running original gear
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 155 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 155 | This is a tight fit but you do not have to remove the ignition switch or the speaker grill to remove the gauges. Three or four small nuts hold the gauges to the dash. A big comfort when I did this was a cushion for my back to cover the brake & clutch pedals as I was upside down under the dash. Another aid was a flexable extension for my small ratchet. Tag/mark/make a diagram of your wires when you remove them for easy reassembly. RdsLessTaken/Don http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/RdLessTaken/library/ | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 649 | I don't like laying on my back under the dash, wedged in between the brake and clutch peddles. It may seem like more work, but I'd suggest removing the speaker grille, and even the steering column brace, anything to make the job easier. This will give you a straight shot at the (4) nuts that hold each guage. Take a pic of the wire loom, disconnect the battery. Phil | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I like using a nut driver on the nuts. I also suggest removing the speedometer first as its easy to disconnect and get out. Then you can work some through the speedo hole to get to the gauges.
I think I mentioned it before but when I put mine back in I put pigtails on the gauges and had it all wired up when I put it back in. Then, just plug the pigtails to the other wires. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,260 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,260 | Since I've had my gauges in and out multiple time recently, I got used to standing outside the door and reaching up under the dash. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet, short extension and 3/8" socket. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | ...but I'd suggest removing the speaker grille, and even the steering column brace, anything to make the job easier. When completely disassembling my truck for restoration, for the life of me, I could not figure out how to remove the steering column brace. So, it was the only bolt in part that stayed put. The brace wont move reward to disengage studs from firewall. Can't move it sideways to disengage studs. Can't move it up to disengage studs...you get the idea. | | |
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