The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Flywheel removal

I've got a motor waiting to hang up on a motor stand, and have come to realize that I'll have to remove the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing to do it. This is all new to me, and the shop book isn't so clear on some of these basic things. It does mention using a clutch centering tool both when removing and installing the clutch. I am unlikely to find such a tool in Sweden. How necessary is this tool when removing the clutch (engine removed)and can I make one or otherwise jerry-rig it?
Karl

Not really necessary for removal but you will need one for re-installation. Most new clutch sets come with a plastic one.

The alignment tool will prevent the friction plate from dropping out as you loosen the clutch housing from the flywheel. Just do the bottom bolts last and have your hand at the bottom to prevent it from falling.

You don't *NEED* one for installation... the transmission input shafts are typically chamfered and as long as you are close you have get the input shaft started, and if the splines don't mate then pull the clutch bearing arm to release the friction plate and turn it.. you can feel when it engages.

It is MUCH easier with the alignment tool, but not terribly difficult if you don't have one.

You can get the alignment tool at your local parts store. Plastic and cheap. Easy to use and it does save a lot of time. With the bell housing in place the clutch is a bit harder to install than the later models that have the open bell housing. You can do it without, but the tool is inexpensive so get one if you can.

Its probably not real easy in Sweden to go to parts store and get a plastic alignment shaft. I have made an alignment shaft in the past using a wooden dowel that is the same size as the pilot bushing. Then you can wrap electrical tape tight around the shaft to build it up to the side of the clutch disc. This method will get you real close and you should be able to slide things together. It also helps to debur the new clutch disc splines, make it so the clutch disc slides right on the splines of the input shaft.

Most of the brooms in my shop were missing about 6" of the handle- - - -cut down to make clutch alignment shafts. The clutch disc spline makes a good cutter- - - -just twist the broomstick into it to get the bigger diameter right, then whittle the last inch or so down to the diameter of the pilot bushing. As long as the cut-down section is close to centered, you're good to go.
Jerry

Broom stick? Great idea!

I've got dowels in just about every size. Something ought to work out.