The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Move timing mark to front pulley on a 235 engine

I am completing the installation of a 1962 235 engine in my 1946 Chevy Suburban.

I am using the old bell housing, flywheel and starter on the rear end of the engine.

Up front I have used the shortened water pump and kit along with the recommended front crankshaft pulley to eliminate water pump cavitation issues.

I am using Langdons high voltage distributor kit.

MY QUESTION IS:Is there a kit or process to move the timing mark to the front pulley so it is easier to time now and in the future. The instruction call for timing between 10 and 18 degrees BTC.

Thank you,
Dave Murray

Only way I can think of would involve finding TDC on cylinder #1. Then some sort of index display...maybe from a newer inline six? And then putting the needed marks on the damper or pulley edge so they can be seen. Or just put some white fingernail polish on the timing mark on the flywheel and use a gun that can set in the advance you need. I just lay the timing gun on the starter and aim it at the hole. Most times I just use a vacuum gauge and do a drive test. Light ping on a heavy load at full throttle. Up the hill by my house works just fine.

Nothing that is bolt on. As noted, find TDC on the #1, make a notch in the balancer pulley at some location that is easy to see and lines up with a reference (or you can add one). The do sell generic timing mark kits.... but mounting then is up to you.

With a carb and mechanical advance you will be better off timing by feel/performance... the marks just get you to a known starting point.

Maybe I am off base here, but the diameter of the balancer wouldn't be the right size to make the mark line up on every revolution????? The flywheel IS exactly made for that, but wouldn't the diameter come into play?

There is no gear reduction on a crank shaft. Think of the crank as a straight line. A 90 degree straight line off the center line of the flywheel and a corresponding line off a keyed pulley will rotate the same.

no, diameter doesn't matter. Any circle regardless of size has 360 degrees.

Yes, all circles have 360 degrees.

But, if you buy a kit and it has a tape with degree markings, the diameter of the balancer is important. The distance between the 360 markings would be wider as the diameter of the balancer gets larger.

That is why "universal" kits come with different pieces of tape with different degree markings.

The question was whether or not the mark would line up on every revolution. Yes the mark will be in the same spot on every revolution, unless your damper is spinning on the crankshaft. But even if you used the tape that wasn't for the correct size damper, the marks will still be in the same spot on every revolution, they just won't accurately reflect the degrees from any particular starting point. Whatever the case, I have had singularly good luck just timing the engine like it was intended, using the ball on the flywheel. It seems like way more work to try and make an easier way to do it, than it would be to just do it the way it was designed. Since it isn't hard at all, and you have your hands about as far away from the spinny things as you can get. Rather than purposely forcing yourself to get right into the danger zone. You could print out a degree wheel from the interweb, and make your marks from there, (it sounds like you have the engine apart) the beauty of this method is you can cut to any diameter that you need and the marks will still be accurate. Then again there would be the method of measuring the diameter of the flywheel at the point the ball is at, then determining (you would have to look this up) what space to make the next degree mark on the flywheel itself, and engrave the numbers in. There are a number of ways to beat this horse. I just like using the ball......

On this same subject, what I do when I rebuild an engine from scratch is mark the flywheel with a Sharpie EXACTLY where the pistons reach the top of the cylinder at 3/5, 6/1, 2/4 (hope I got that right but you get the idea). This way when its all together, I know what is happening better. I don't have to spin the engine endlessly looking for the ball.

That's a good idea. Wish I had done that.

I've seen this done, believe was in an old 12 Port News, a guy had installed a pointer through the timing gear cover and notched the balancer. I'll attempt to post this if I can locate the article. Also you could make one similar to the common small block one that attaches to the timing cover.

Just adjusted my valves and had to use a rachet with long extension on the balancer retaining bolt to get motor turned over and line up mark on flywheel. This is probably the best selling point for switching to a solenoid starter.

My '54 235 has timing marks on the front pulley. It doesn't have the indicator tab on the block, so it isn't used for timing the engine.

I've always wondered about the pulley. I assume that a previous owner installed the pulley. I've never had the engine apart so I don't know anything about the pulley. Don't know if the marks are in the correct location.

These pics were taken from passenger side looking down so the numbers are upside down. Numbers go from "0" to "40"
> Timing Marks
> Timing Marks close up

The engine is not totally original.
+ Block Casting Date Feb 26, 1954 (Casting B264)
+ Block Casting Code 3835911
+ Engine Serial # 0369873F54U: 368873rd engine at Flint plant 1954 model year, 3100 with heavy duty clutch RPO 227
+ Head 3836848, Dec 22, 1959
+ Intake 3835590 possibly from 261

- Lonnie

Thank you Everybody!!!! I had never seen or heard of timing tape before but then again all my past damper/pulleys had marks on them already.

My fall back plan was to measure the diameter in centimeters, divide by 360 and then mark it off in 5 degree increments, that would have gotten me close.

My front damper is 7.25 inches so I can set #1 piston on top dead center, fabricate my own pointer and attach the tape. I will also mark the new front damper, at the same time I will notch the new damper/pulley every 5 degrees for future use