The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Radiator Hose Sealing

Finally got around to removing the hoses on my '38. Not too much of an issue getting them off. However, the necks on the pump, radiator, and thermostat housing are very pitted. Should I consider using some type of sealant when I install the new hoses, and if so, what should I use?

I also found out that there was no thermostat. I tried to get one at NAPA, but they don't list anything that far back. I'm sure I can go online and find one, but can I get away with just looking for one for a later year 216 or other engine size?

Thanks

If you use new hoses & good worm drive clamps they should seal OK. The later model therm. will fit it. They used the same therm. from 1934 to the 90s.

If the material at the radiator is not ready to fail. Then try a new hose and see if it leaks. They seal rather well on rough and pitted surfaces. On the pump and housing the same thing applies. I use a bit of Vaseline to help slip the hose on and have no issues with corrosion. Just wipe it in the hose and slip it on. If the hose connection leaks then worry about it. Modern hose material and good hose clamps help a lot. I have never had a hose leak because the fitting is too pitted. It might happen but..not to me yet. If the outlets on the radiator are failing try to find a "good" radiator shop to replace them. I think the thermostats are the same size for all 216s. And all 235s. So just chose the temp and put it in. I like a 180 for most applications and remember to look for a "vent" hole on the thermostat. If it is not there drill one. It helps a lot to get the air out of the system when you refill it with coolant. When I fill a potential leaky system for the first time I use plain water. That way I don't worry so much if it leaks. Antifreeze is Not good for animals and the environment. Water is safe but the stuff that comes out is who knows what.

The inlet on my '37 was very rough also but sealed just fine. On these old radiators, the inlet and outlets are cast iron soldered into the brass tanks. It doesn't take much to get them to leak at the fittings so go slow when handling them.

If you are good with a torch and solder, its not to bad to repair. I was getting pretty good at fixing mine till I switched to a all aluminum radiator a couple of years back. I could not keep the top tank seam to stay sealed, once a year I would pull it for a touch up. I believe the top tank brass was getting thin and the flexing from heat cycles would crack it where it soldered on.

Joe

As wrenchbender noted a modern thermostat will work. I use a 160 deg. on my '38.

Thanks for the advice gents. All went relatively well, except for the fact that the hose kit I bought online didn't work. The metal elbow for the lower hoses wasn't bent in a tight enough radius and was too long. I tried cutting it back about a half inch on each end hoping it might help. Anymore and I was getting into the bend area where the pipe cross-section was becoming oval shaped. Tried to find someone who could bend an inch and a half pipe in a tighter radius, but had no luck. So, I went to my FLAPS and had them find a hose that had a bend that matched the old pipe. I cut a little off of the ends of the hose, and the hose fit like a charm.

I used a 160 degree thermostat, and the truck seems to like it. It ran well, temp got maybe as high as 180, and the truck purred. Haven't seen any signs of leaks at this point, so hopefully all is well. All this just in time, since the cold weather isn't far away.

Thanks again for the help!