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| | | Forums66 Topics128,060 Posts1,055,833 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | I've started to dismantle the '41. The door hinge pins won't budge. Is there a trick to them or am I just looking at 70+ years or corrision. I didn't want to force them and then discover there was an easy way....
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 177 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 177 | mix acetone and trans fluid 50/50 pour it over the hinges and let it set for a couple of hrs . then you should be able to drive them out from the bottom . this has worked for me on a lot of rusted bolts and screws | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I believe the hinges on my 38 Master are similar. I used a ball joint/universal press. It looks like a giant U clamp. I used a bolt on the bottom of the pin and a deep socket around the head. It screeched and protested a bit as it was pushed out. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 60 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 60 | I use the Acetone and ATF mix with great success . some things will take weeks to soak all the way through . be patient and use a very large hammer .
Allan 1946 GMC 1949 Mercury M68
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | The trick for me was making sure there was solid support under the hinge not just held in the vice. I had a 2x3x4 block of Al and a sacrificial old socket that I use for stuff like that. I also found the hardest one of mine was actually rusted in 3 pieces and didn't want to drive out. Kroil, 5lb jack, and solid support at the point of impact... I don't have a press 
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | When you drive a pin out of a bored hole with a hammer the shock compresses and causes barreling of the pin just as a rivet shank fills the hole it's in. The harder you hammer the tighter the pin will get. Fred's got the right idea, pressing a pin/bolt/shaft out of a hole is the correct way to remove them. The steady pressure will not expand the shank, unless it is restricted at it's exit point and you're putting a WHOLE bunch of compressive force on it, like 22,000 psi yield strength for A36 steel. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,596 | On mine I used a small propane torch to heat things up and get them free, then a hammer and a punch. It took a while but worked well! | | |
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