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#981827 10/27/2013 10:10 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 698
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 698
I've started to dismantle the '41. The door hinge pins won't budge. Is there a trick to them or am I just looking at 70+ years or corrision. I didn't want to force them and then discover there was an easy way....


My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 177
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 177
mix acetone and trans fluid 50/50 pour it over the hinges and let it set for a couple of hrs . then you should be able to drive them out from the bottom . this has worked for me on a lot of rusted bolts and screws

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,112
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,112
I believe the hinges on my 38 Master are similar. I used a ball joint/universal press. It looks like a giant U clamp. I used a bolt on the bottom of the pin and a deep socket around the head. It screeched and protested a bit as it was pushed out.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 60
R
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
R Offline
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 60
I use the Acetone and ATF mix with great success . some things will take weeks to soak all the way through . be patient and use a very large hammer .


Allan
1946 GMC
1949 Mercury M68
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
C
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,901
The trick for me was making sure there was solid support under the hinge not just held in the vice. I had a 2x3x4 block of Al and a sacrificial old socket that I use for stuff like that. I also found the hardest one of mine was actually rusted in 3 pieces and didn't want to drive out. Kroil, 5lb jack, and solid support at the point of impact... I don't have a press ohwell


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
When you drive a pin out of a bored hole with a hammer the shock
compresses and causes barreling of the pin just as a rivet
shank fills the hole it's in. The harder you hammer the
tighter the pin will get.
Fred's got the right idea, pressing a pin/bolt/shaft out of a
hole is the correct way to remove them. The steady pressure
will not expand the shank, unless it is restricted at it's
exit point and you're putting a WHOLE bunch of compressive
force on it, like 22,000 psi yield strength for A36 steel.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,596
On mine I used a small propane torch to heat things up and get them free, then a hammer and a punch. It took a while but worked well!


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

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