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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 97
So I have been doing a lot of searching. Have found a lot of great info. But got a question..

Most all post's refer to the 2 small spade terminals on the back of the Alternator as 1 and 2 (have seen pictures of some and they are numbered). My Alternator has a F and an R like this diagram shows http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001966#000000

Do I need to run it through an external regulator or can I wire it like the other mentioned alternators? (10SI or 12SI delco)

#1 going to diode then ignition
#2 going to a distribution block which is then tied to:
A) + side of Bat
B) Bat output on Alternator
C)main power feed to fuse box.


If it can be wired like the later Would F be 1 and R be 2?


1963 Chevy P/U: Forged LS1/4L80E swap and big hit of N20 coming
1973 Camaro: Low compression solid roller LS1 with PT91 turbo Built for the Silver State classic
1967 Convert Continental: Stock Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,708
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Super73,

I have seen some alternators that have the plug identified by both R&F and 1&2. The key is the orientation of the tabs.

If your alternator case indicates R&F, the tabs should look like this... II ...

This means a external regulator IS required.

My idea would be to find a 'SI' alternator and use your existing one as a core for the new purchase.

A single wire unit would be simpler yet, and work just as well.

The fewer wires and firewall clutter means a nicer looking engine compartment.

Your wiring recipe for the internally regulated alternator (SI) is perfect.

If your tab orientation is truly this way, II , it MUST use a external (firewall mounted) regulator, UGH!

Stuart

Joined: Mar 2006
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Stuart,

Thanks for the reply.. If it was my truck, I'd be doing it the simple way and spending a little more. However, this is for my friend who is on a major budget. Alt was free from another buddy (worked in his 69 Z28 which used a ext voltage regulator) so I am guessing it needs the same. I'll double check the tabs tomorrow but I think they are II formation, not -- or I- or -I if the last 2 even exist.


1963 Chevy P/U: Forged LS1/4L80E swap and big hit of N20 coming
1973 Camaro: Low compression solid roller LS1 with PT91 turbo Built for the Silver State classic
1967 Convert Continental: Stock Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 97
She's a chargin now boys smile

It's run with some small dinqy wire as that's all I had in the shop. Now it's off to go get some decent wire and fuseable links.

FYI, it is not internally regulated.


1963 Chevy P/U: Forged LS1/4L80E swap and big hit of N20 coming
1973 Camaro: Low compression solid roller LS1 with PT91 turbo Built for the Silver State classic
1967 Convert Continental: Stock Cruiser
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Quote
(worked in his 69 Z28 which used a ext voltage regulator) so I am guessing it needs the same.
Uh duh. Yes, if it needed an external regulator on one car it still needs one when you put it on another. There are no magic words you can use to make it work otherwise.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.

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