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#97707 10/21/2006 11:43 PM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 | 1957 3600-I had an ignition coil stop working and replaced it, everything worked. But, someone before me had wired this sucker with four wires on one side of the resistor. I'm thinking that burned up the coil. I picked up a new resistor so I could put the coil wire on the opposing resistor terminal. It started to smoke. The person had the wipers, one green wire, one brown as well as the coil wire on the same terminal on the resistor. My question is- what the hell is going on?! Could somebody please help me I'm lost.
Thanks RT
UGLY 1965 C20 "it ain't supposed to be purty" | | |
#97708 10/22/2006 1:07 AM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | ugly573600,
I'll give you my rendition. If you are still going to use the ballast resistor, the coil you purchased should indicate it has NO internal resistor.
The ballast resistor should have at least one wire feeding it FROM the ignition switch, and could have TWO wires on the coil side. One of these would be the +, or key switch power to the coil.
The second wire would probably come through the solenoid on START, and would be system voltage to power the coil during start.
Additional items might have been wired into the system "okie" style, but these would be on the ignition switch, or BEFORE resistor side of the device.
The ballast resistor will probably get warm as the truck 'runs', but shouldn't smoke, unless it had a protective factory oil or something on it.
The only things on the load, or coil side should be the wire going to the coil, and another one that will lead down to the starter solenoid.
If your truck has a stomp starter instead of a key activated starter, its starter switch should have a small post on the side this second wire on the load side of the resistor should go to.
Again, the coil will get 12 volts through one wire during start, and about 9 volts, which is the reduced voltage coming through the resistor during run.
These should not make the resistor smoke. Any additional loads on that side might make it smoke, and they should not be there.
Stuart | | |
#97709 10/23/2006 10:50 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Like Automarc says if wires are attached to the resister on wire that goes to the ign switch someone is using it for a junktion block. Not good but would not cause coil failure or resister to smoke. A new resister will smoke at first because of factory coatings & dust.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#97710 10/24/2006 7:30 PM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 | Thanks for the advice guys,
I bought another ballast resistor and parralled them to soak up the amps and everything is perfect now. Runs like a champ. Thanks again,
RT
UGLY 1965 C20 "it ain't supposed to be purty" | | |
#97711 10/24/2006 7:39 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | ugly573600,
Good news, but I must add, something is very rotten in Denmark. If you are happy with this setup, that's all that counts, but be aware that something will fail eventually, as there are "too many amps" racing through your system.
The ONLY thing on the downstream side of the poor old ballast resistor should be the coil, and it should not draw enough current to make the proper resistor cook.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Stuart | | |
#97712 10/24/2006 11:10 PM | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,029 | By parallelling the resistors, you have half the resistance designed into the system and the voltage dropped accross them will be too little to keep from burning your points and coil. The only way to increase the wattage rating using stock ballast resistors would be to use four resistors: two pairs hooked in parallel and then the pairs hooked in series. I wouldn't recommend doing that. | | |
#97713 10/27/2006 7:10 PM | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 12 | Thank you very much for the wisdom. I'm not thrilled with this okie setup, and if anyone knows where to get the proper resistor I could really use a lead. The motor is a 283 and I've tried both the 283 and 265 resistor from the local auto parts store. For now she isn't having any trouble firing. When tested, the ignition wire puts out 12 volts and after the paralled resistors the coil gets 7. Is that still too much?
Thanks again,
RT
UGLY 1965 C20 "it ain't supposed to be purty" | | |
#97714 10/27/2006 7:47 PM | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 5,708 | ugly573600, An acceptable voltage after the ballast resistor would be around 9 volts. The original question was why is your ballast resistor heating up and smoking. If the only item on the coil side of the ballast resistor is the coil, it shouldn't smoke or heat up. Are there other wires on the coil side of the resistor? There should be a wire coming off a small post on the starter the ties in either at the load side of the resistor, or sometimes, at the + of the coil. This wire must not go to ground when the key is in RUN. The resistance value of the ballast resistor will probably be the same for any GM 12 volt rig..it isn't cubic inch dependent. This is a super simple wiring arrangement, and should work flawlessly with only a single ballast resistor. Something is being overlooked. We are on your side!  Stuart | | |
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