The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 283 rebuild

I have been planning to rebuild my 1965 C-10 283 for a long time now. This Fall was going to be when I was finally getting around to getting it done. I have been reading all the pros and cons of a 283 rebuild and I have always been convinced that I would keep my 283 instead of changing over to a 350, for gas economy being one reason, and just because I like my 283 being another. The one thing that has bothered me the most lately is the reputation of the leaks of the oil pan, timing chain cover and main seal. I have read on this site and others that these leaks can be controlled by various installation techniques concerning uses of different types of gaskets and various gasket sealants. I guess that just because there are so many conversations about this subject should tell me that indeed there is a problem. Even a mechanic that I trust has advised me to go with a different engine, to save from future problems because of his experience with lots of these engines in the past, unless I was going to show my truck, which I am not and never plan to. It is and has been my daily driver and farm work truck. Now I've just about changed my mind to go with a 350, even though I don't necessarily want to, and just store my 283. By the way, for information purposes, due to a recent shoulder surgery, which will leave my right arm incapacitated for a few months, I had to replace my manual three speed with a new 700R-4 from Phoenix transmission. I realize that I will have to go with a 2 bolt main on a 350 instead of a 4 bolt and that does not bother me. So is it a matter of the rebuilder knowing what they are doing, and have many of you folks got this same leakage problem. This is not a debate of which engine I prefer, I just want to know if I should expect the problems that I have mentioned. I realize that the oil pan gasket is in three pieces, and that even with proper installation this is one of the causes of the problem.
Thanks,
Joe

As far as oil leaks there is little difference between the 283 & a 350. If put together right & carefully there is no reason to have leaks. That being said it is still cheaper & easier to use a 350 Goodwrench engine. There is no reason you have to use a 2 bolt main engine with the 700R4 transmission.

Depends on what needs to be done to the 283 for a rebuild. And they are great engines. You can build one that will be leak free if you want. No harder to keep oil leaks from happening with a 283 as there is with a 350.

Just finished up rebuilding a 283 out of a 57 Chevrolet. Runs great and is dry.

Sealing materials are much better now than they were 50 years ago so shouldn't be any problem to keep oil leaks at bay.

The only big question is will it need machine work (block bored and new pistons) or crank turned? But even then shouldn't be a deal breaker.

Nearly everyone wants to suggest a crate 350. But in my experience they really aren't enough cheaper (if any) than rebuilding what you already have into a sweet little engine.

If you use a newer 350 with a one piece rear main seal and a 1 piece oil pan gasket you may have a better sealed engine than your 283.
As mentioned, the seals and gaskets available today are far better than when the 283 was built. With proper assembly your 283 could be assembled free for leaks.

Felpro offers a one piece oil pan gasket for the small block Chevys that is great. And if the rear seal is instlled correctly it works fine to keep the oil in.

The one piece rear main is better, but I've never had problems with the two piece, and I think the little 283's are great engines.

The big point has been given by RR, sealers are much better now, lessons learned are more available and many of the leaks are on engines in the car. Out of the car and on a stand that can be rotated where you have good light and clean habits, no leaks.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0401_fixing_leak_timing_chain_cover/viewall.html

Thanks, I received bad info about the 2 bolt and 4 bolt evidently.

I was pretty successful putting 4 bolt main bearing caps on 305 blocks, and using the 3.1" stroke crankshaft out of a Monza 262 V8. Of course, the block and caps needed to be line-bored after the modification. The result was a 255 cubic inch engine that would turn 8,000+ RPM with a Holley 300 CFM 2-barrel, the specified carb for the "street stock" class. My competitors on the round track didn't stand a chance against that engine, and all the casting numbers the tech crew could find indicated I was running a 305.
Jerry

I will take a good 283 or 327 or even a 265 any day. I don't know many people with them, but I know a lot of people with 350's.