The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Paint, rust and 3m bonding

I'm getting ready to paint my rims.I'm going to be replacing the tires too so I'm going paint the rims with the tires on them.No point in masking the tires because they are going to the dump.I'm wondering if anyone has a good way of removing the paint from the rims so I can paint them? Sand blasting is out of the picture so is paint stripper. maybe someone uses a certain tool or a certain sandpaper or something else. I'm not trying to get the rims to bare metal I just want them smooth so they look decent when I paint them.I'm not using primer or anything of that nature. I have red Rustoleum and I plan on spraying 3 coats on each rim.I currently only have a roll of 400 grit sandpaper for my Snapon DA which won't fit in the small grooves. I'm going to use my Matco 90 degree die grinder with a scuff pad on some of the rougher area's of the rims.
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I'm seen on the show muscle car on the (power block) where they applied some rust treatment with a brush and it stops the rust turning it black. Can someone tell me what this stuff is called and does it really work like they showed on the show. But as usually I don't know what this stuff is called.

While I was in school ( Tennessee technology) auto body and collision : the teacher showed US this 3m adhesive stuff that newer cars and trucks were starting to use to bond panels ,in fact our teacher done a frame up restomod on a 78 check truck.he used the adhesive on the roof skin door skins and other parts. To get his point across on how strong this stuff is he got 2 pieces of sheet metal mixed the stuff.then put it between the sheet metal held with vise grips to dry over night. The next day he hooked it up to the frame rack and pulled them.To my and everyone elses surprise the sheet metal tore and the adhesive never budged.long store short I want some of this stuff because I'm going to be gluing (if that's the right word for it) the inner and outter rockers on the 65. This stuff will bond anything as long as it isn't structural.The benefits of this stuff include not warping / distorting the metal because you are not welding. It also acts as a weather seal so water doesn't get between the metal to make rust.The problem is I don't know what its called lol.if you have heard of this stuff and know where I can buy it please know thanks

Your real rust issue and possible point of failure on vintage rims is INSIDE the tire area. Especially around the stem. Duplicolor makes a product in aerosol available at most auto parts stores that turns rust into black primer. No ide what its called because its not the best process. Its better than nothing. If you want really pristine wheels, you will go with either powder coating... something that scares me a little due to the possibility of chipping when they put the tires on, and Urethane paint. Same really. Best way tho until they come up with gloss black steel. Of course sandblasting is easy to do if you have access to the school. If not, I am sure there are blasters in your area. But, if you really want to use sandpaper, 400 by HAND and then use whatever aerosol tickles you. Take the tires off first tho. You will be very glad you did.

I blasted my rims with the wet sandblaster from HF it does a pretty good job. Couple coats of paint and looking good.

Im going to check out HF sandblasters.a bag of sand should do the rims id think? It doesnt have to be perfect tho cause I am doing a ratrod afterall but I dont want it to look 1/2 [censored]Ed.im not doing a ratrod because im lszy im doing it because I like how they look

I thought the definition of Rat Rod was half as$ed to begin with...
Just rattle can it and go...

The definition of a Ratrod is something that you can drive and drive it every day if you wanted to without worrying about paint chips .its not a trailer queen or a weekend car or a car you only drive on pretty days.a ratrod doesnt have to be perfect and is made with what you have to work with

I'm building a rat rod right now with my '48 Ford truck, just wrestled the cab/front cap off this weekend by myself, geez that was tough. My reason is to have something I don't have to worry about just have fun with, I have other cars I can sink tons of money into. If I wanted to drop tons of money, I could unleash on my Nomad. I want something with little investment and fun, but it has to be safe and reliable. Using S-10 chassis and Studebaker bed (my Ford had no bed). I'm not hurting anyone or anything, the Ford was a 3/4 ton LWB with no bed and 4.86 rear and widowmaker rims, not much I was interested in but the body. Rat rods have their place, I think.

The idea of a "rat rod" might have some appeal but too often the end result usually looks like the "builder" didn't have the time, money or ability. The word is overused and misused. But what do I know.

Hey,to each their own! Whatever makes your "Boat Float"! Not all of us are rich. The "restoration",of my '55 T.F.,is NOT the final result. It's "Good enough for now",until I retire,and have some time and money to spend. It's not my daily driver,but it does get driven often. I used "Rustoleum Rust Reformer",under the floor-boards,and the inside of the fenders,doors,and radiator-support areas. This is "flat" paint. "Flat" paint,is formulated (fairly rough texture),to accept a top-coat.Painted over rust,the texture's going to be rough,anyway. It's recommended to top-coat with a "gloss" finish,to repel sand,salt,etc.,similar to "Teflon" principle. Since truck is 99% rust-free,this is the technique I used. I applied "Magnet" brand "Chassis Saver",to the frame,axles,springs,drive-shaft,etc. This is a single-stage compound,that is applied over rust,with a little prep-work. basically,removing the scale. You can go with "Rust Reformer","Rust Inhibitor"",and (Recommended),2 coats of "Chassis Black",(all GREAT Eastwood products),if you plan on taking the frame down to Bare Metal,and coat every inch of the frame,etc.at least 4 times! "Chassis Saver" is a proven product,and I'm happy with the results! It's also a money/ labor/time saver!! My kind of product! If you happen to get any of this stuff on ya,DON"T use paint-thinner,or any mineral spirits! Trust me... They DON'T work!! BEFORE YOU BEGIN,(Especially If you're working over-head),rub your hands and face,(plus any exposed skin),with vegetable oil! It will wipe right off!! If it dries-on,you'll need to use some elbow grease,but it will come off with veg.oil. I learned the hard way. L.O.L.

actualy Chassi Saver is a 2 part Moisture Cured Urethane just like POR 15.
They both have the same liabilities and advantages.
They work great if placed over rust and come off in sheets when placed on clean metal.

Both wind up very brittle with very little flex built into the final cure as opposed to epoxy primers which remain pliable once cured.

Two part?? "Chassis Saver" may be purchased in a pint,quart,or gallon! there's no catalyst to add!How long before "Chassis Saver" becomes brittle? 10 years? 15 years? When this stuff cures,it's like rubber,(in MY experience),and has stayed flexible,for the last 3-years since first applied to the frame-rails! None has peeled-ANYWHERE! When I retire,I plan on doing a complete frame-up,but to protect the truck,in the meantime,I RECOMMEND the aforementioned products.Skeptical? See the video in the "Links" section:"Corrosion Fighting Products":magnetpaint.com. TESTIMONIALS to the FACT, that this product has lasted , used by several municipalities,under extreme conditions,for better than TEN YEARS! I'm NOT trying to cause an argument. I"m HAPPY with the products I mentioned. They DO save TIME and MONEY,while protecting MY investment.I'm NOT trying to sell anybody on this product,but I'm VERY SATISFIED!! Like I said..."To each their own!

I was satisfied with the MCU for about a year and a half too... then I started working on the body and frame and found my satisfaction had turned to 'another hard lesson learned'.
I'm just reporting my experience with Chassi Saver. It called for an "S-88" activator/hardner making it a 2 PART when I used it in 2010. Maybe with no S-88 is stays soft but that's not how it was advertised to be used to me.

a year later, it peeled in sheets whenever I hit it with air pressure except where I put it over rust. WORKS GREAT OVER RUST!
Where it held 'as advertised' it looked great unless I tried to sand it. Sands like concrete. Once the outer layer was scuffed open it was porous and very difficult to remove and nigh impossible to feather. NOT a problem with Epoxy primer. I use it as my build coat it sand so good. (SPI brand)

Since switching over to epoxy primer I have seen the difference first hand in adhesion and flexibility of the two cured products.
I want something that moves with the metals expansion and contraction and is more chip resistant... thus the switch in my case.
To each his/her own.
But those who come looking for the industries best practices will not find much (if any) MCU products being used by top end professional shops (meaning if it fails they stand behind it and fix it) for restoration. They are just not worth the risk...

I am NOT a high end shop... I just like to use the best stuff if/when I can and also educate myself regarding products pro's stay away from. It's not trying to convince anyone to use a certain product, but I am trying to warn others...

I think they are both one-part (single component as described by Magnet Paints) and are moisture-cured (moisture is the catalyst)?

http://magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

Thanks for the "link",Tim!!

I bet you that if you took in the wheels with tires dismounted and disassembled to a commercial sandblast shop they would be much cheaper than buying a sandblaster, sand, respirator, and abuse to an air compressor. My guy charges $10 a wheel. And he shoots a coat of epoxy primer when he's done (unless its going to powdercoat).

He does commercial sandblasting for electrical boiler turbines. So that pays his bills. All the little stuff fills time and is walking around money.