The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Are all air flow heaters the same?

I bought a air flow heater to put in my 55 1st series. It doesn't quite fit, just about 3/4" too big. does that make any sense. Did the 54/54 have a different air flow than the earlier models?

Yes,

53-55 have a door in them on the front of the heater, prior years did not. I have never measured them to see if there was a difference? Where exactly is it 3/4" off and what fit is affected?
Early version:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129448404/in/set-72157631868452754
53-55 version:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8129313579/in/set-72157631868452754

Post a picture - it might not be an "Air Flow" ("Fresh Air") heater. I think that all years had the same size hole.

LonnieC's 53-55 heater

http://www.flickr.com/photos/101977815@N04/

I even took the thing apart, bolted the two mount bolts on the firewall and then put the piece that bolts to the kick plate up and the holes are 1/2 to 3/4" off.

It sure does look like a 53-55 heater.

Looks like Bruce has the answer.

Here is the opening in my '54 3104:
> Cowl Inner Panel Heater Opening 1
> Cowl Inner Panel Heater Opening 2

See FAM Section 1, Sheet 5.00. Also 1954 Accessories Installation Manual p. 47. The 1951 Accessories Installation Manual is close, but not quite the same as the 1954 Manual.
> 1951 Heater Installation

You might check to see if dash mat has shifted which may cause the opening for the blower motor to be off. Your aftermarket generic blower motor is probably a little smaller diameter than the original motor, so that will give you a little more wiggle room.

- Lonnie

Lonnie,
I have something you might be interested in.
But I can't PM you.
Your PM quota limit is exceeded.
Light'n the load.
Then PM Me.
I will then send you the info.

Thanks,

jorb

jorb -

I eliminated some old PMs. Should be able to receive PMs now.

- Lonnie

Sure, I had the plate off to try to fit it. With the heater unit still together, I could not get it in there, no room for the motor to get in the hole while the intake was on the kickplate. Its the weekend, I will take another stab at it and see about some more fit pictures, with the cover plate off and heater in there. Wondering about giving the kick plate some encouragement to move a little to the outside. Big question was whether or not there was a different model heater for the 55 1st. If there wasn't and this is the heater, I don't see how it could not be an assembly issue/kick plate needing to move some. I would think the heater motor hole was made correctly, but the kick plate might be 1/2" off. Any thoughts?

Was in inner kick panel replaced at some time?

If so it may not of been targeted/welded correctly

Post some more pics and measurments before you start whacking the cowl inner panel. I'll try to take some similar pics of my installation to see where we differ. Include some pics of the heater. There may be a part installed incorrectly. I'm sure that the collective brains on Stovebolt can figure it out.

It takes a little "maneuvering" to get the two support braces, the blower motor, the air intake, and intake mounting holes to all line up at the same time. I've cussed more than once. If the heater or inner cowls are freshly painted, then protect them with some blue tape while you move the heater around to find out why it's not mounting.

Part of the air intake goes inside of the cowl inner panel heater opening.

Are you sure that the hole in the dash mat for the blower motor is directly in line with the hole in the corresponding hole in the firewall? The mat may have shifted.

Does the hole in the mat for the Ranco valve align with opening in the firewall? If not, then that is an indication that the dash mat is not positioned correctly. I believe that reproduction mats have punch-out indentions for the valve, motor, and braces.

You may need to cut out a square in the dash mat under each of the two support braces to get them to sit against (are nearly against) the metal firewall. This made a big difference the last time I removed/installed the AirFlow heater in my '54.

After all the smoke clears, you may find out that yes indeed - the cowl, or heater, or sumpin else is totally screwed up and needs a BFH to make it fit!

- Lonnie

I don't think there is room for the kick plate to go outwardly. Take a look at pictures. Maybe could get some dimentions on an other 55 1st truck. From the edge of the motor hole or one of the bracket holes to the edge of the fresh air opening?

You can see in one of the photos of the firewall that the motor is lined up and brackets are in holes. Another shows that the heater is "too big" to fit.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/101977815@N04/

stuck my head in there, looked inside the fresh air vent, I think the kick panel is in there right, I don't see any space for it to be moved to the right.

You got quite a bit to move there
...your pic...

I don't think you going to be able to move the kick panel that much.

Only ideas I can think of is a recirculating heater or metal work in the panel.
Maybe someone with a cab without a heater installed can get you some dimensions

here are pics of my 53 3100 cab and heater. need more pics let me know. pic 1
pic 2
pic 3

Here are a few pictures with dimensions.
Heater motor to mounting flange is 5 1/8" to 5 1/4"
pic 1

Kick panel to firewall heater motor cut out hole is 5 1/8" to 5 1/4"
pic 2
pic 3
pic 4

I suspect what LonnieC suggested that the portion of the heater that is beyond the
mounting flange (look at pic 1 the level is pushed up against it)
is maybe getting hung up and the flange is not seating tight against the kick panel.

Or maybe the truck has been in a accident at one time.

My truck has never had any factory heaters ever installed.
Sound deadening material still intact at firewall where heater core hoses pass through.
Disregard all the non-factory holes in my firewall someone before me installed an aftermarket heater.
Magic Air

Thanks,

oleyeller

>>> Just to be clear, are you saying that when you bolt the two heater supports to the firewall, there is a gap between the heater case and the inner cowl? Or, are you saying that the heater body presses against the inner cowl and does not allow it to move into place? I assume that you have tried mounting it completely assembled. Don't know if that would make any difference, but I see that the front cover is off in your photos.

EDIT: DISREGARD MY QUESTIONS AT THE START OF THIS POST I re-read your questions which confirm that the heater case is touching the cowl and preventing the blower motor and support brackets from seating into place.

I had a devil of a time mounting my heater the last time that I had it out. I had to enlarge the square cut-outs in the dash mat to allow the feet of the support brackets to move into position. Otherwise I was having a similar problem that you have. I protected the blower motor with blue tape, because it was scraping against the opening in the firewall as I was jamming everything into place. I wish that I could remember which piece that I put into place first ... brackets bolts, blower motor, air intake. Or if I moved them in as a group.

> Post a photo of the air intake door mounted onto your heater. Just to make sure that it is correct.

Original post ...

I guess that I am lucky. With some wiggling, my heater sits into place with the air intake positioned correctly into the inner cowl and all mounting bolts aligned perfectly. Your heater is really nice looking. It will look good in your truck. Protect it with some blue tape while you are trying to get it to fit. In the end, I hope that you don't confirm what others have hinted at - - that your truck was wrecked or twisted sometime in the past 60 years and caused the varience.

You will not be able to tighten the middle clutch head screw on the firewall-side of the heater case with a screw driver. You will need to replace it with a 1/4-20 hex head bolt and use a wrench, or leave it out. The 1954 Accessories Installation Manual says to use five screws ... which I guess implies that this one is left out. You can see the hex head bolt on my heater in the "> Hoses to core" photo below.

Stovebolters are posting some good pics of their heaters. I hope that a few will result in the ah-ha moment that will help you. Not saying that my heater is totally correct, but here are pics of the AirFlow installation in my '54 3104.

1) MOUNT TO FIREWALL
Your installation onto the firewall looks like mine, except that you have not installed the Ranco valve and hoses yet. Your blower motor is centered in the opening. There is not much wiggle room in the holes in the firewall for the heater support bolts. BTW, Jim Carter is the only source that I have found for a reproduction metal ring that holds the rubber gasket around the heater motor to the firewall. Most suppliers include a foam rubber gasket for the blower motor to firewall in the heater gasket kit. Seems awefully flemsy. I like a solid gasket instead of the foam.
> My firewall
> Jim Carter Firewall Ring

2) MEASUREMENT TO INNER COWL
The center of the head of the lower support bolt is 14-1/2" from my inner cowl.
> 14-1/2" to inner cowl
> Here's how it was measured

3) VARIOUS PHOTOS OF MY HEATER INSTALLATION

> Hoses to core

> Upper and lower support and Ranco valve

> Lower support and Ranco valve

> Heater to inner cowl - 1

> Heater to inner cowl - 2

> Heater to inner cowl closeup - 1

> Heater to inner cowl closeup - 2

> Heater to inner cowl closeup - 3 Scroll up and down.

> Heater to inner cowl side view - 1

> Heater to inner cowl side view - 2

Don't know if it will help, here is the link to my Heater Album on Photobucket:
> Photobucket Album

I'm originally from Bowling Green. There are a lot of good ol' trucks in Kentucky and Indiana. Keep 'em runnin'.

- Lonnie

Well, I really appreciate all the trouble you guys have gone to with the measuring.

The dimension from kick plate to edge of fan hole is 4 3/4". The measurement from kick plate to center of lower support bolt is 13 3/4". I don't know how, but it is 3/4" off. Where the kick plate hits the firewall, there is no space there, if you move it, you are making the truck wider at the hood hinge. Not a good idea at this point in the restoration. I see a slight bend out in in the kick plate, looks like right below the fresh air hole it bows out just a little and there is some kind of inner - curved support inside between the outer skin and the kick plate. No extra space. I could see pushing it there (and breaking the paint on the inside and outside) but that won't change the dimension from the fan hole to the side of kick plate at the fire wall. Up at the top of the kick plate - above the fresh air make up as you can see in Lonnie's picture, that is welded right there, so I don't see that moving. I am beginning to think it was built like this. so my options seem to be 1) to basically restart the restoration on the right side of the cab after I try to push the metal out, and maybe end up with a cluster-foo. 2) put the plate back on and get a cold beer while I look for a recirc unit. Or 3) modify the fresh air fan with a piece of plastic between the fan housing and radiator housing to adapt for the 3/4" distance (using 1/4" HDPE plastic sheet). It would basically be an oblong /oval piece of plastic with a round hole in the center. I think I can do it where it would be hard to see while sitting in the seat. The question there is would it be an insult to the Chevy god /how would that be if I am trying to keep it mostly original.

Did I miss any options? Advice?

Try option 3 and see how it looks
Originally It didn't have a heater

For a daily driver it will be fine, I drive my truck to work in the winter time and use the heater in the mornings.

If your going for a points truck , judge points then other options might be the way to go

Good luck and enjoy