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| | | Forums66 Topics128,127 Posts1,056,681 Members48,452 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 5 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2013 Posts: 5 | I replaced the rope seals in my 1940 Chev Special Deluxe. I did not find a seal in the upper part of the bearing, also no material parts were in the oil strainer or oil pan. The lower seal was worn and split. I slid one of the seals in the top and fitted the other seal in the groove of the lower bearing cap. I worked it into the groove as instructed. I torqued the 4 bolts on the cap to 100 ft lbs and installed the oil pan and added the oil. The starter would not turn over the engine. Battery is good. I backed off the 2 rear bearing bolts on the cap and the engine turns over very slowly. I may have to drop the oil pan and loosen the 2 front bolts on the bearing cap. Before I do that I have to ask if 100 lbs of torque was too much? Any other assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by John1940Chev; 09/14/2013 5:16 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 3 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 3 | Sounds more like the seal is not installed correctly and is causing to much friction to turn, rather than to much torque on the bolts. There is a rope seal (wick seal) installation too. But you can also use a steal rod to ensure the seal is pushed into the grove all the way. I'm not sure how you get the top half in without taking the crankshaft down. I have not put a rear seal in a motor unless I had the engine out. I know you can do it with the engine in just seems easier for me to pull the motor.
Blackcloud 1940 Chevy Pickup 235 inline six
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