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#968527 09/01/2013 10:14 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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does anyone remove and or modify the inner cab. i have dents on the bottom half of my cab and noticed that there is a second skin per-say on the cab. it looks as if someone tried to bend the dent out and only accomplished to bend the corner hole thing. i would like to try my hand at repairing the dents. thanks. pics are always a bonus. ill try to get pics tomorrow.

chromesnot #968549 09/02/2013 12:03 AM
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Shop Shark
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Inner cab of what?
But yes there is an inner and outer skin that is spot welded together. I choose to pull those dents out rather than 'open that can up' so I could swing a hammer... unless rust is involved.


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
chromesnot #968649 09/02/2013 1:27 PM
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Sorry its a 48 chevy 4400. The dents are on the low sides in the corners and a few creases on the back of the cab in the middle. No rust but I don't know how to pop them back out from the outside

chromesnot #968652 09/02/2013 1:38 PM
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These are general suggestions that you can find PLENTY of info on using that software program... ohhh WHAT was it?????

Oh Yeah...........Google

1. You can drill holes and use a slide hammer.
2. you can use a mig welder and weld nail heads to the area and then useing vice grips pull out while gently hammering around the edges of the dent, working it a little at a time.
3. You can use a special dent pulling welder that spots the stud/nail for you and THEN work it like #2

Go to YouTube and watch some vid's on the subject.
There are good ones and bad ones so watch enough to tell the difference then have at it!


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
chromesnot #968670 09/02/2013 3:20 PM
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'Bolter
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47/48 trucks have a substantial inside liner that was removed in 1949 when the gas tank relocated inside. I would not recommend removing it or portions of it but follow some of the suggestions above.

chromesnot #968694 09/02/2013 5:22 PM
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I don't want to go buy a bunch of tools to fix the dents. If it was removed in 49 why is it a big deal if it comes out or not? Is it a pain to reinstall super flimsy? I just think it would be easier to tap it out with a hammer rather than drilling unnecessary holes. Just curious.

chromesnot #968704 09/02/2013 5:49 PM
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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a section of the inner panel behind the seat was left off [and re-enforced differently] with the tank design change, but overall the cab inner and outer were built up a step at a time with a lot of spot welds, a "cab within a cab", the double wall design is what gives it the necessary structural stability .... if you want to cut away the section behind the seat, fly at it, if you think you'll be able to reach all the repair areas that way - have you ever tried hammering out dents from the back? mostly not simple, and if you're willing to cut away interior panels, you must have a welder to put them back? why not just use the welder and nails to pull the dents as said above? and one cheap slide hammer is useful for a variety of jobs without being a "bunch of tools"

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
chromesnot #968721 09/02/2013 6:23 PM
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Well since your curious.... What your experiencing is inexperience and whats been offered is experience. Sometimes you don't really get it till you DO IT... Some people ask and decide to go with experience and others do it their way and some of those folks do really nice work and some of them sell unfinished projects for 1/4 what they think it was worth when they started...
I've personally tried some of the "My Way" techniques but experience taught me to start by 'listening' and I got finished faster!


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
chromesnot #968764 09/02/2013 8:45 PM
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Its more of an assumption that it would be simpler to bang them out from the inside. I don't have a stupendous amount of body work and I appreciate the help. Some are dent others are creases so I need to figure out which technique works best. What size nails are we talking about to weld on the body?

chromesnot #968824 09/02/2013 11:08 PM
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Renaissance Man
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The 47 and 48 cab had the extra center support that runs from just below the rear glass to the floor to provide support for the center cab support at the rear. In 49 they went to the shackle cab support, eliminating the need for the center cab support. Coincidentally, it made room for the gas tank. If it were mine, I wouldn't touch the center cab support.

Last edited by 52Carl; 09/03/2013 11:44 PM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

Moderated by  klhansen 

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