The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1951 Rear drums stuck!

Hi, I feel really dumb posting this but here we go-

I can not get the rear drums off of my '51 3600. There is a big groove in the drums that is keeping the shoes from releasing the drum. Yes-I have the retaining screws out of the face of the drum.

I just wanted to know if any one had any tricks to backing off of the adjusters. I have tried every adjuster tool I have-and have even broken a couple of the adjuster wheel "teeth" off of the wheel cylinder (which has not made the situation better).


My next step is to cut the drums off with a torch, but It looks like the drums are not available aftermarket?

Thanks in advance,
Keith

I don't know exactly how '51 drums are fitted, but here are some general thoughts, because I have sure fought frozen drums alot here lately on a fleet of woods derelicts I have bought and hauled home. Firstly, make sure the holes around the bottoms of the lugs are wirebrushed as clean as possible, and around the center. Next, does it have the little pins that go through the shoes through the backing plate and you can see the "heads" on the backside, if so clip those off with wire clippers or dremel. lots of penetrating oil in every fashion into every crevice. I beat on the drum face between the lugs and some on the sides (you're not supposed to do that) and alot on the back edge, and use a serious hammer (I use a 4 pound). I also use combinations of flatheads and prybars to try to get into any crevice.
If you can get it moving any and can slip a small prybar in the center hole edge, you can leverage it pretty good.
It's a hard fight no matter what and don't forget rust around axle hub and lugs can thwart every effort.

and by the way, in most of these, I've fought the frozen adjuster deal too. It just happens.

I had the same problem and the adjusters on the wheel cylinder were frozw. I unbolted the wheel cylinder and let it float out with the linings all altogether. Gave me enough play to get behind the drum and pop the linings off of the wheel cylinder.

51 drums are available it is the earlier Huck drums that are not. I usually use a series of pry bars and hammers to get them loose. Hammers work but you can crack or break the drums sometimes. From your description of the groove they may be junk anyway?

Every time time I have had that problem I tended to start timidly and get nowhere. Then the BFH comes out and I apply swift and blinding violence! That is what it takes. I have never broken anything, but I was prepared to spend some money if I had.

I don't think drums are available for a 51 3600 because they are Huck brakes. Unbolting the wheel cylinder may allow the shoe assembly to come apart. Undoing the whole hub wil give more freedom of movement and if you can turn the drum at the same time it will help.

that's been me too, that's why I said 4 pound hammer, I've even used 12 pound sledge at times and i'm amazed I never broke anything because I have whipped the living hell out of brake drums and I'm very stout in my upper body/arms/hands. I can beat frozen kingpins out by hand with a 4 pound hammer. I broke a pair of channel locks the other day putting gorilla grip on a nut.

Don't forget to undo the 2 little countersunk screws on face of drum. 3 long pry bars or screwdrivers, 1 at 10 oclock, one at 2 oclock and one at 6 oclock and drive them in with a hammer as far as possible or whereever you can get them in. Then BFH around face of drum, then drive in pry bars further and BFH more, getting any movement? Removing wheel cyl helps also. It should start moving some. Dont give up, DO NOT CUT HUCK DRUMS, Near impossible to find. Keep us informed. Jerry

I have a method where I put a little pressure on the drum with Large Craftsman screwdrivers jammed between the drum and the housing, (like Jerry says) THEN and most importantly...

Screw on 3 lug nuts across from each other. Screw them in such that you have the lug nut just barely sticking out further than the stud. Use a hammer to wrap the lug nuts until it breaks free. You shouldn't be a gorilla about it, just wrap them and see if that doesn't solve the problem.

Ended up having to remove both rear drums. Cut 4 pieces of 1/4" flat steel bar, beat them in 90 degrees apart behind the shoes, and BFH'ed the drums til they popped right off.

Ended up finding the 3/4 ton rear wheel cylinders at autozone for $40 a piece.

Now my next dilemma- where on earth do I buy a set of rear brake shoes for this thing?!