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#95979 06/17/2006 5:04 PM
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 244
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 244
I need some help on splicing stranded wire together. I plan on soldering the stranded wire together then using heat shrink tube around it. The question is on stranded wire is it best to separate the wires and mesh them together before soldering them? Is rosin core solder recommended?

I appreciate any assistance.

#95980 06/17/2006 5:32 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
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Apprentice
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I don't go to the trouble of braiding lots of tiny filaments. I kind of flatten the wires out, lay them on top of each other and twist.

The stripped ends need to be long enough that you can twist and they lock together. That way the connection has some mechanical integrity. Then solder them. I use a mini-butane torch for 14 gauge and up. Heavy wires will suck all the heat right out of a lightweight soldering iron tip. The tip must have more mass than what you're soldering.
I use rosin-core electronic solder for everything, the kind you can buy on spools from Radio Shack or any electronics supplier.

#95981 06/17/2006 7:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
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The joint should be done as described, with electronic solder. A soldering gun provides a lot of heat when needed.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
#95982 06/17/2006 8:51 PM
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I prefer marine quality crimp splices with heat shrink sleaving. These are less prone to breaking due to vibration, as both the conductor and the insullation are restrained. Solder will migrate up the wire and can cause the wire itself to fail over time. Of course, most of the splicing I did was on ocean going boats, a harsher environment than most Bolts ever see.

#95983 06/17/2006 9:05 PM
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Shop Shark
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I like rosin core solder because the rosin is an etching agent and keeps the solder on the wires.

I flatten things out, tin the ends, and then solder them together, just like my daddy taught me.

And yes, I use heat shrink tubing. I noticed that they have a bunch of pretty colors today at my FLAPS.


~#~#~#~#~
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#95984 06/17/2006 9:07 PM
Joined: May 2006
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'Bolter
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I use that type connector as well, namely because I can't solder for spit. If it's something that needs to be able to disconnected I also use Posi-Locks with the wheather protection boots. I get most of my connectors and wire from the local farm store and Menard's, you'ld be suprized at what you can find in those places.


Bill Burmeister
#95985 06/18/2006 12:20 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 248
T
Wrench Fetcher
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I use tinned uninsulated crimp connectors to connect the wires together, then solder, then heat shrink. The crimp connector gives the connection some mechanical integrity and makes it easier to solder. Always use rosin core solder.


Daily Driver 63 C-10 LWB Fleetside
#95986 06/18/2006 12:43 AM
Joined: Aug 2005
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Ex Hall Monitor
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Thanks for the tip Texmo. I can't solder worth a spit either because I have a heck of a time keeping the wires together for an inline solder joint. I'll start using the bare crimp connectors in the future. I knew I kept you around for a reason. grin grin grin eek


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#95987 06/18/2006 1:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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a soldering tip -> have a good mechanical connection before making the electrical connection [solder]
1 - strip each wire about the same amount - don't nick any strands
2 - twist the ends together well
3 - when the iron is hot , "tin" the iron with a small amount of 60/40 resin core solder - do NOT use acid core [radiator] solder
4 - put the wires on the iron , and apply the solder to the wire - stop as soon as solder flows over the full length of bare wire
5 - when the joint cools , bend the joint flat against one wire
last, slip the heat shrink tubing over the joint and shrink it [you did remember to slide a piece on before joining the wires?]

soldering is always preferable to crimp connectors, which might make a good mechanical connection, but frequently don't make a good electrical connection, at least not one that lasts

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

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#95988 06/20/2006 12:34 AM
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Shop Shark
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a proper ''western union'' splice or staggered WU splice (two + wires) http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14176/css/14176_46.htm is to bring the stripped wire butts 1/2 way together and wrap each side round the other. solder. tape

i now use heat shrink

it works for solid and stranded, got it's name from . . . . you guessed it right
the railroad telegraph, 1861 Western Union completes the first transcontinental telegraph line, providing fast communications during the Civil War.

more insane railroad trivia
SPRINT
stands for
S outhern P acific R ailroad I ntigrated N etwork T elecommunications


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#95989 06/20/2006 5:43 AM
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Shop Shark
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In past years I would and still do solder wiring. My shop teacher in high school tought me to use what is called a (western union splice) Its simple to do but difficult to describe without a picture. Maybe you can look it up on the web. Oh and I use heat shrink. I found heat shrink not only in all colors but also in any length and diam. you want at an electrical supply.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
#95990 06/20/2006 8:48 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 248
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Wrench Fetcher
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Tiny...wish I could take credit...I learned it from madelectrical.com. Some good stuff on there.


Daily Driver 63 C-10 LWB Fleetside

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