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'Bolter
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Does anyone know if the 2 pieces 1/4 by 1/2in. with 4 holes that join the two windshield frames are the same angle as the cab or are they slightly more angled so as to place additional pressure on the outside ends of the frame. I cut these out of the frame to get the two halves apart; because they were rusted into the frame. I made new ones from aluminum but I might remake them from brass. The steel piece I copied had an angle which is more than the cab angle. The little "T" shaped sheet metal pieces are the same angle as the cab. Thanks.

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Shop Shark
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Can anyone help GW out with this?

GW...can you post a pic or two to help answer your question?



1957 Chevrolet 3100 Stepside
235, 3-speed w/OD
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When I did mine, the old ( original ) window frame was badly rusted, but I was able to get the angled pieces out. The new frame I purchased ( Carter ) came with new angle bars, that were slightly more bent than the originals. I opted to reinstall the old bars as I was sure they would fit correctly. They angle the frame to match the cab evenly. Outside corners fit a little on the loose side, however, with a good flexible gasket ( Steeles Rubber ), its 98% weathertight. I have seen a few '46's with cam type handles on the inside "A" pillar, which pull the frame tight, and appear to be a stock item ?


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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I may be able to help, but it may later today or tomorrow before I can dig out the part and post a photo.

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'Bolter
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Hi;
Thank you all. On page 2 of my photobucket about in the middle I have a photo of the bars. The old rusted ones are slightly more angled than the cab. My new aluminum ones I made I think I angled too much. I suspect the angle should be smaller than the cab angle to force the corners in tight. I did order the Steeles rubber because of all the posts on this forum. I am thinking I'll make new ones out of brass. If anyone knows how it should be that would be great. Doing door body work today in the rainy northwest.

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GW:
Here are some photos that may help. If you need a different angle or measurements let me know.

'46 Chevy Half Ton Windshield center joint
Windshield center joint photo 2
Windshield joint Photo 3

Windshield joint Photo 4












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Thank you. I,ll check mine and see how close to 11 degrees mine is. Thank you very much. Is yours original?

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Yes.
That angle seems odd to me the more I think about it. I'm going to triple check it this morning.

Rechecking shows angle at between 11 and 12 degrees. Checking the cab angle indicates the angle there is about 2 degrees more than the frame.

Last edited by 46Sparky; 05/28/2013 10:42 AM.
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My original metal piece is 15 degrees the way you are measuring. I checked my cab angle and it is 167 degrees. The metal V joining piece is 165 degrees. What this does is places the outside corners about 3/8in. closer to the body than the center (using that trig math I learned years ago). This is a good thing I think. Thank you for helping. Now I just have to decide if aluminum is the right material to make the V with. I don't want the V to rust to the frame again.

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I'm tuning in to this, As I'll be doing this real soon, Anyone know the best vendor for V-Bars?

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GW
Glad I could help. One thing about these trucks is, the fit and finish from the factory was nowhere near what we all expect and demand now. I guess that is, in part why thick rubber gaskets are used in some places. Ahhhh trig....dang those were the days......

72:
Sorry, but I don't know a source for the angled metal tenon. I imagine a machine shop could easily make one though.

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They sell the V part at several of the old chevy parts dealers. Yeah I was thinking as I painted the inside of my doors after work today that this truck has way more paint on it then the factory ever applied. And I need to figure out a door gasket that the trucks never had. But that's part of fun? So much work I hope it lasts for a few years!

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Aluminum is easy to work with but can fracture after time with vibration. Stainless is harder to work but would be a more permanent fix and also would not corrode?

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I bought a new frame and the two connecting pieces are angled differently and I am having trouble fitting the frame and gasket in to the cab correctly. The frame fits in the cab about 1/4 inch low. Any thoughts on how to correct this?

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Raise the hinge with spacers. The hinge sits one a metal cross piece. Space it up off the cross piece.

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I just painted my org. frame. It is 15 inches across the open end and about 14.75 inches across at 3 inches in from the closed end.

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Thanks for taking those measurements! It turns out I can shim the windshield but it just seems too tall to fit in the cab recess. If the rubber around the frame was 1/8 inch narrower it would fit but I got the rubber from Carter's so I assume it is right. Frustrating!

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Quote
I bought a new frame and the two connecting pieces are angled differently and I am having trouble fitting the frame and gasket in to the cab correctly. The frame fits in the cab about 1/4 inch low. Any thoughts on how to correct this?
I have a set of original V connecting bars and the top & botttom are the same.
Hope this helps.
Harold


Harold
Is a restoration ever finished?
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Thanks Harold, the v-bars are part of the problem then.

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I measured my frame and it measures like yours. Is it possible the rubber gasket around my frame is too wide? The gasket I ordered from bowtiebits extends 9/16" from the frame. My truck didn't have an old gasket so I don't know if that could be the problem. I am assuming the gasket/windshield unit sits in the indentation of the cab but now the bottom rests outside the indention. I did end up spacing the hinges up as high as they needed to go so now the windshield fits the top pretty well. Harold in another post told me the vbars need to be identical so that accounts for a minor bit of he problem.

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I had bad luck with rubber from Carter. Seemed very hard.
Steeles Rubber is much better quality in my opinion. Flexible / seals to body better.


1940 Chevy KC 1/2-Ton
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