The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Caster angle question

Has anyone experimented with increased caster angles? From what little bit I've read its seems that steering is much more stable, but takes more energy to actually turn the wheel. I'm aware that the manual reccomends somewhere in the 2-3 degree range, but I'm curious if the added stability might be worth the extra effort.

I don't feel it would be necessary, if everything is adjusted properly in the steering linkage and proper tire pressures are used, these trucks are pretty stable with the factory specs, even at highway speeds.

The main thing is to repair anything on the front end that has any play in it. A small amount of caster is desireable. Its hard to find the shims for it anymore.

When my truck is at a stand still any movement of the steering wheel causes the front tires to move. There doesn't seem to be much slack in the steering, but out on the highway she tends to loosen up a little. I bought Patrick's R&P but haven't installed it yet, I'd like to get my front end right first. Ive read through the posts about sway bars and such, that led to a little more research and I ended up at Caster angle. One article I read said caster angle of 7 degrees or more isn't uncommon with radial tires, but thats with power steering. Maybe my first step would be to hit the weight room.

7 degrees is excessive, the only modern vehicles equipped with radial tires that uses that much caster are the old solid axle Jeep Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, and the Wrangler, all with coil spring suspension. Most of the vehicles I've seen where a 7 degree caster angle is suggested are lightweight, short wheelbase cars, like T Buckets or Model A roadsters.
I would suggest rechecking the preload on the tie rods. They may seem "tight", but if the preload isn't correct, they will "loosen up" when driving, causing a toe out condition. The same goes for the drag link, if it is still the type with the serviceable ends. The preload setting isn't hard to do, simply remove the cotter pin, crank the plug in until it seats, then back it off to the first cotter pin hole. You will need a Drag Link socket, which is more or les a larger screwdriver bit with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch square drive on it. You may have to get ahold of a Snap-On, Mac, Matco, or Cornwell dealer to get one if you cant find one at the parts store.