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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,129 Posts1,056,360 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 | Hi All ..I need advice.. I bought a 53 3600 in Jan and drove it every weekend until two weeks ago.. ran great except burned a lot of oil but no smoke... started knocking light sounds at first and only when under gas but now it is knocking when idle so I parked it ... I took to my mechanic and he pulled each plug to listen and said that he would need to take engine apart to find out how minor/major it is .. In meantime I found another complete 216 incl radiator and other parts for $250 (local) and purchased it - actually found and purchased two engines(one 49 and one 52) .. we bench tested the 49 and it started right up and purrs BUT it smokes a LOT (maybe needs a ring job ? is that major?) .. so we are planning to swap parts and bench test the 52 ... hopefully we can swap engines if it is good. Frustrated ... some have even said just run the truck with the knock ... it will probably go for a long time ..It still has good oil pressure and runs fine - except for the soft knock (not loud) ... any advice? Any way to determine if it is something minor without taking the engine apart? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | You may want to check and see if it has a bent pushrod. A bent pushrod can make lots of noise and is not an expensive fix. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 | Don - Thanks for input ... Is there a somewhat easy way to check this without disassembling the engine? | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 4,263 | just pull the valve cover off and run the engine. ...bent push rod... | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 | Thanks for the video - that is interesting and helpful ... but pretty sure not the issues ... doesn't sound that way .. sounds more like coming from lower end of the engine - not upper  | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | An experienced mechanic should be able to listen to it & get an idea what is knocking. If its a rod it will not run much longer. If it is a piston slap or wristpin noise it will probably run for a long time. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | The most common failure of a 216 is the rod bearings. If the original pistons have not been replaced they are cast iron. These are very heavy pistons and with today's highway speeds the heavy pistons are very hard on the rod bearings. I would suggest shorting out one spark plug at a time, or pull one wire at a time, and see if the knock changes. I suspect it will.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 | Dave - My mechanic did what you mentioned with the spark plugs first thing when I brought it in ... no change in the knock.
Looks like things will be ok now as the '52 engine bench tested just fine today ... a swap is in the future ..:)
I suspect we will take the existing engine apart just to diagnose but keep both the 49 and the existing engine for spares .. plus all the parts .. I do have an extra 4 speed tranny (good since that is what I have) and also the 52 came with a 3 speed tranny ... which I don't need ... in case you know someone who may wish to purchase?
Thanks all for your help ... If I do find out for sure - I will post it ...Jeanie | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | The 216 is a babbit bearing motor, meaning the piston rod bearings are poured into a cavity. This was a normal thing back in the 30's and 40's but nowadays its almost impossible to find an engine shop that can pour babbit bearings. If you INSIST on keeping the old 216 babbit motor, and I have a project I too insist on keeping original, then they make piston rods with conventional new style rod bearings you can replace your old babbit rods with. This will make the engine much more reliable, but then also understand that motor has a SPLASH oil system.
There are small cups on the bottom of the piston rods that fill with oil from the pan and in the maelstrom, splash oil all over the lower engine. IF you are lucky. Almost every truck from 47-55 I see these days has the newer style 235 motor (54-62). They are a perfect bolt in solution that gives you conventional rod bearings as well as a pressurized oil system that doesn't rely on splashing.
Just trying to give you options. Lots of people love their 216 babbit splash oilers. They were made from the 30's to the 50's so lots can be said about their longevity. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 31 | Thanks Dave ... others have also suggested the 235 as an option .. but think I will stick with the 216 for now .. if I keep having issues, I will definitely consider that ... but kind of want to stay as original as possible and since I already invested in two more 216's, I probably will stick with the plan to just swap engines and put in the '52 one that checked out well. I was even able to get some neat parts from the 49 .. like the old splash oiler BIG air cleaner (really neat) and the clear bowl gas filters ... guess we will be putting these on as well ... Learning lots from you guys - thanks all for the input ... | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 1,232 | Hey Jeanie - I applaud your desire to keep your truck "original." Congrats on the new gas filter and air filter. You will probably need to replace the gasket between the bowl and the body of your glass bowl fuel filter, especially if it is cork. When they dry out, they shrivel up like a corn flake and will never flatten out again. > Dried out gasketsDoes your glass bowl gas filter look like either of these? > Durex 986640> Durex 986128If so, I have a pdf pattern of the gasket for each that I can send to you. Heck, I'll even cut one and mail to you. If your oil bath air cleaner is like mine, here is a post about the decal that I used on it ... > My Quest: Decal for Oil Bath Air CleanerYou might want to clean the engine and paint it before you install in your truck. Many 'Bolters say that dark gray engine paint from The Filling Station is a good match for the original color. Search for Stovebolt threads on what was painted, or call me. > Filling Station engine paint - avail in can or aerosol. By the way - since you have all of those 216's, maybe you could use them like Tommy Ivo used Buick nailheads! > If one is good, then four is better- Lonnie
Last edited by LonnieC; 06/29/2013 10:18 AM. Reason: added engine paint info
- Lonnie My '54 3104Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post. lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt. OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all | | |
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