| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (Hotrod Lincoln),
72
guests, and
0
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,680 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | Have a new wiring harness from jc's for 41 1/2 ton. Instructions say that dimmer switch, brake lights, parking lights, tail lights and the voltage regulator BAT wires all get hooked to headlight switch.
The original wiring diagram show the volt regulator BAT wire going to ammeter - the ignition and light switches hook up here too.
What should I do? Besides hang myself with this harness. Should I lengthen the volt regulator BAT wire and run it to the ammeter and run a new wire from the headlight switch to the ammeter too?
The harness also has an unlisted wire in it as we'll as wires with the wrong listed color... Thanks, joe | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | using the BATT terminal on the switch for a junction works as well as using the terminal on the ammeter, they probably are working from a different diagram or just trying to keep the ammeter connections clean and simple - if the wire length works best, do it the way they say, which should still have a wire from the switch to the ammeter - the volts still go to and from the same place [the battery], doesn't matter which route they go to get there
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | That's the odd thing. The only wire to the ammeter is from the starter. The other post on the ammeter is empty. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | well then they did make a mistake, you wouldn't have a functioning ammeter, so you'll need to add a wire to the other post of the ammeter, either moving the reg wire from the sw or adding one from the sw to the ammeter - and you should inform JC and the harness maker of the mistake
Bill | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 | I had the same wire missing when I did my '46. I made one up from wire and terminals I had around and threw it in there from the ammeter to the light switch. All works well now. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2007 Posts: 98 | Ed, your ignition and horn wires ran to the ammeter as they were originally supposed to? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 | I believe so. It's been a while since I did the wiring. I know the wire from the ammeter to the light switch was missing, several wires were the wrong colors (as per included instructions) and I think the horn wire was completely mislabeled. Checking wires against the diagram in the manual helped a lot with figuring things out. | | |
|
|
| |
