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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,139 Posts1,056,451 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 46 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 46 | I'm not sure if this should be here or in the engine section.
I have a '59 235 in my '50 1/2 ton, I rebuilt it several years ago, starting last summer when its in the upper 80's & 90's outside its like it runs out of gas every once in awhile, could it be because of it vapor locking? If it is, what do I need to do to correct it?
I'm not sure where to start looking for the problem, I have the heat riser adjusted so it never opens to heat the intake.
I have a Carter 964s carb on the original 216 intake & I do have a problem with it also, for some reason I can't open the air/fuel needle valve, it runs better with it closed. I'm open for suggestions. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | It looks like your fuel line plumbing is in the normal locations. Vapor lock is most likely not your problem.
It sounds like you should start by checking out your carburetor.
Ask questions, be methodical, be patient. You'll figure this out.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,159 | I'm with Tim. It sounds like you have a couple of issues. 1st, I just rebuilt a carburetor,(per instructions),for a '58 viking 60 bus. The initial tune of the air/fuel needle valve,calls for turning it gently,until it "bottoms-out".Then it calls for the screw to be turned-out 1-1/2 turns. 2nd,I installed a set of "Fenton" headers on my '55 T.F. 6500,and it didn't run properly,until I purchased the "heat" kit. In you case,I'd re-adjust your heat-riser,so it does open,allowing the fuel to vaporize properly. To prevent vapor-lock on my truck,i have a wooden clothes pin clasped between the fuel filter,and the inlet tube on the carb. I haven't had a vapor-lock issue,yet. If these steps don't help,it may be time to re-build your carb. Kits are readily available,and the process is fairly simple. the main purpose is to get the inside of the body CLEAN,CLEAN,CLEAN!!I re built mine,and 2-weeks later,it acted like it was starved for gas! One small speck of debris,half the size of a pin-head,lodged between the accelerator pump body,and the check-ball beneath it. While you're at it,it would be a good idea to use compressed air,and blow-out all of your fuel lines.(From the tank to the pump,and from the pump to the carb.) This will help keep your fuel filter cleaner,for a longer period of time. Hope this helps.
Last edited by wetwilly5757; 06/22/2013 11:22 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 396 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 396 | I would try wetwilly.s advice first , if that fails May I ask you what degree thermostat you are using? A few years ago when I was running a 180 or a 195 degree thermostat, I had "Short of gas" symptoms, changed to a 160 degree and poof, problem gone. Jerry Jerry
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