The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts charlotte

i dont know if yours is like the 6000 series but there are three countersunk flat head screws that hold the rear drums in place on the hub. scrape off the face of the drum to see if they are there. i recall in another post sometime ago some truck maybe smaller only had two. if you have them there is no need to pull the axle unless you want to do other maintenance and inspection.

if there are no screws then you either need the correct socket to engage the hub lock nut of you can take a flat round punch and hammer to break it loose. once loose you can just turn it off. under the nut is a flat washer and the bearing adjusting nut. dont mess up the nuts if you use the punch method. my 40's drum and hub are one piece and the axle must be pulled.

On the face of the drum between the studs?

The studs look like they go all the way through the drum. Maybe pressed in to the back. I have to find that tool now.is there anywhere to get the torque spec for the lock nuts and stuff.

yesthey are between the studs and they are countersunk flat head machine screws

yeah in that link i attached some posts ago. you adjust the bearing tightness with the inner nut and lock the setting with the outer one.

It doesn't appear so. I m getting confused on these brakes though. I have one line going to each corner but my research tells me it should be dual cylinder setup. I guess I won't know foe sure until I get the part to pull the hubs off. Wondering if its worth trying to keep this axle or swap it out.

so I've been getting caught up with other things but I've been daydreaming about what color I want to paint her. the options I'm throwing around the factory seacrest green or a satin black. She will probably have the wood sides on a stakebed. Opinions suggestions

if a truck doesnt look aesthetically appealing, you will be getting stopped every 5-10 miles to see if its had its safety inspection. make it look good and all you get is a passing wave it's yours do what you want to it.

I have never thought of that. Thanks 51ashton

here's what my dump looked like when i got it.
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/B...amp;_suid=137164705895706614312089554981
this is what it looks like after a $30. paint job
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/B...amp;_suid=137164705895706614312089554981
http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/B...mp;_suid=1371647247865030751366098288235

I was looking at that. I really like the truck. I kinda wondered how mine would look with a shorter bed. I never had the option for a in cab tank. I would love the original green but I'm not sure I want to sand the whole body by hand with 2000 grit.

what sandpaper , just get some of these http://www.zorotools.com/g/00059388/k-G3374682?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CMK19fG48rcCFcij4AodaDsAHw and run it all over the body to remove the heavy rust and slap it on with a brush and roller. thats all i did, it sits out in the weather all year long for the last six years and still looks good at a show.

the truck was originally green and i think it would be coolto sand the crap off the top and have the original paint. i know it has some dent and dings but i think it would be cool as hell to have the original paint. it might look like crap with the splotchy spots and bondo.

So I bought the 6 pin axle but socket and it doesn't fit. All my research tells me that there is only one socket size. Suggestions comments? It was suggester to grind down the thickness of the pins to make it fit but if it breaks I need another one.

bend the lock tab out of the way without breaking it off. take a flatnose punch or something blunt and loosen the locknut. once loose you can turn (or should) it by hand. once off you can take the nut with you to get the right socket after you clean up the nut of coarse.

Sorry for the silence. I got stabbed in the hand and severed a tendon so I've been out for 2 months. But now that its healing i had to start tinkering. So I finally got to work on the brakes. Got them completely torn down to the backing plate. Kinda [censored] me off that the plate doesn't come off but whatever. Found the whole drum and everything in the general vicinity is soaked in what I'm assuming is brake fluid. But I don't know what brakes I have. Its a single wheel cylinder with adjusting gears on front and rear. Couldn't tell you what they are supposed to look like because I pulled the drum off and a spring fell out and the shoes fell off. Ran out of brake clean so that will wait for tomorrow. Going to see about rebuild kits on the wheel cylinders. Front shoes had plenty of meat the rears were down to steel. Drums aren't scored really. Won't know for sure until I clean them off. Now to track parts. Picture tomorrow too. No light left.

they are Huck type brakes. sounds to me like you need everything under the drum.

Does anyone know of a place to get the spring. Or a picture of what its supposed to look like.

https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#album/103651644171441676100/5873521037161100257
New pics

i got mine at napa.

So I got the wheel cylinder new from O'Reilly part number wc3677 for the rear and wc3406. I need to get the shoes relined but I've read there is a different thickness front to rear. Is this correct. Also how many parts are there. I don't have the spring but other than that is there any other parts I need to worry about.

so i am going to pull the wheel seals but i read somewhere that you shouldn't repack the bearings. if i clean the bearing grease out and have a new wheel seal how would the bearing get lubricated? should be getting the shoes relined soon then i can reassemble the rear. the drums don't look horrible so i'm going to just run them. getting super excited. As horrible as it sounds i cant wait to find more bugs when i start driving her. a bunch of wiring before shes streetable but a neighborhood stroll would be nice.

Well if you are wondering about the rear wheel bearings that would be correct, you do not pack them they are lubed by the differential oil. After the hubs have been re-installed be sure to top off the differential oil then jack up one side at a time and let each side sit up on the jack for a bit this will cause oil to flow to the low side hub. When finished lifting each side top the diff off again.
The front bearings need to be packed with grease.

are there any precautions I need to be taking in airing up my 7.50 x 20? I know they are split rims but haven't been messed with. Just want to make sure I don't die.

Check your rims! If you can see a ring around the wheel,(easier to check on the front,but be safe and check them all)!! If that's the case,you have 3-piece rims,and Not the "Widow-Makers". The "Widow-makers",are split in the center,and the "lips" are solid on those. If you have older tires,add 5-7 lbs.,at a time,instead of filling them all at once. This will give the tubes time to expand,while reducing the risk of a blow-out. Hope this helps.

So i just started assembling my which brakes. The wheel cylinders are in and bottomed out to provide room for adjustment. But....... my shoes, with the springs on the shoes, touching both sides of the e brake bracket provides too much width. The drums are hanging up enough so I cannot turn the drum on passenger side. Any suggestions. Someone from work suggested cutting down the e brake bracket but I'm not sure how I feel about that.I'm so close to the "maiden voyage"

If you can turn it on the driver's side,and not the pass.side,are you sure it's not something besides the e-brake bracket? I'm Not that familiar with the A.D. "Big-Bolt" E-brake set-up. Aren't the brackets set-up the same on both sides? Are your "New" shoes wider than your "old" shoes? If so,can you return them for a set that you CAN use?

The shoes were relined so i know that the frame on the shoes is correct. The springs and wheel cylinders are new as well. I'm going to pull off the drums again and see if I can play with the e-brake bracket see if it loosens up. The the e brake is not really adjustable at the wheel. I believe its just the cable. I'll try to get it working here in a bit.

with both drums on, work the brake pedal to seat the linings and springs. then see if you can fully seat the drums but dont beat them on. they may go on a little further. if they do seat then see if they spin.

so with that statement the only thing that might have changed is the new linings are a couple of hairs thicker than what was original. i had this issue with my dump and on my 40. on the dump i found where the contact between the lining and the drum was being made and removed just enough lining by sanding that area until the drum seats and spins freely. then adjust wheel cylinders accordingly.

it ended up being the e brake itself. i had the cables and everything attached prior to installing the drums. pulled the cables and now it works. i need to adjust the cable so i can have some form of backup plan in the event the brakes don't work. attempted a a maiden voyage but ran into battery issues. got her charged up and hopefully i can take a proper voyage this weekend. still having issues with what needs to be fixed and what can wait.

Hope Everything goes well for your first trip! nothin' more exciting ,than a maiden voyage! GOOD-LUCK!!

So partial success. She stops now. Master cylinder leaking but I have a rebuild kit for it. Now the motor is having moving issues. It idles pretty good but stalls a lot when I let off the gas. Not sure why. The carb has no adjustments besides bend this and bend that. So needless to say I still have a lot of work ahead of me.any suggestions on the motor issues? It gets fuel air and ignition. Not sure which one is the problem. If my IQ allows I'll try to post video.

Update time. As of this time I have rebuilt and installed the master cylinder, replaced shoes, wheel cylinders, all the springs, adjusted the E-brake cable, re wired the generator, and ripped out the old seat back. She is running for the time being, I ran it out of gas and couldn't lift the bed to refill the tank. I loosened the straps so I could rotate the drum and put more fuel in, I saw the lovely way the installer put the inlet into the tank and it sucks a lot. I pulled out of the drive and actually drove her down the block turned around and came back. she stalled twice because of the inlet on the drum. I cant get pictures inside the drum otherwise I would've. it has a foot long piece of copper or brass tubing sticking in the drum but it doesn't angle to reach the fuel. There is approximately 2" from the inlet to the bottom of the drum, so if the fuel is low or i'm on a hill she will stall out. Kinda sucks. but she ran and i drove her. The speedometer, heater, aftermarket water temp all work but i can't see the others. Now the fun begins as i have a lot of tuning and tinkering to do before shes legal. I need a full harness and all the lights. Slowly but surely. Making progress feels awesome but I have so much to do before she's legal.

been quiet for a while but a huge success today. my amazing wife told me to go outside and tinker on Charlotte. long story short i commute just under 100 miles one way to work. my family time is more limited than i want but you gotta do what you gotta do. i was bored and felt i needed to spend time with the family she told me "you're not going to meet you deadline if you are sitting here worrying about what we are going to do." so i tinkered. i originally got very stressed, i snapped my bolt for the steering wheel puller and halted all progress for removing the cab. I've spent hard earned money to buy a paint gun because i was understanding that a crappy paint gun job was better than a great rattle can job. needless to say i now have the tools. sand blaster, paint gun , primer gun, air dryer. i was getting frustrated with the little stuff. today the cab is now ready to pull off. all trim removed, steering column, heater, wiring, and i'm feeling a lot better now. thank you for the advice kind words and support. new pics of current status. http://plus.google.com/photos/103651644171441676100/albums/5873521037161100257?banner=pwa