The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Tie Rod conversion

I picked up a set of replacement tie rods at classic truck parts. I took the old ones apart and was going to install the replacements. I was following along with the shop manual and was making good progress. I couldn't figure out how to get the ball stud that the tie rod end fits over out of the steering arm.

I found a tech tip that talked about trying to press the ends out. It sounded like it was really hard to do and required special equipment. Does anyone have a secret to removing the ball studs? If not, I'll take my new ends back to the store and trade them in for a tie rod rebuild kit.

There has to be an easier way to do this.

If the ball is not worn to bad than just check for broken springs and readjust.
If you do replace the ball then drill out the center of the stud part so it can collapse in on it's self, than drive out.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/100_1416.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/100_1418.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/100_1419.jpg

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/100_1420.jpg


perhaps this will help??

Alvin;

Pictures are great. Very helpful. I don't have a drill press though.

Dave;

I had the drivers side apart this afternoon. The ball was not worn and the spring was in good shape. I cleaned everything up and reassembled. I then lubed it with the grease gun. I'll do the other side some afternoon this week when I have some time.

I got the impression that having the original ends on the truck was dangerous. Right now I don't see any need to change the tie rod ends. I'll probably just hold on to the new ends and king pins in case it starts to get sloppy at some point.

Did you follow the shop manual on adjusting the ends?

I sure would not consider them dangerous.
Any part even your replacement ends can be dangerous if not greased regularly.

Larry,
I did just what Alvins pictures show. I used a dremell and ground the bottom of the ball stud, the stud is flared out. I ground around the outside edge till I could see the center of the ball stud. Then a long punch and a 3lb. mall and a few well placed hits and it was out. Might have taken 15/20 minutes to do both arms.( I had two extra arms off of another front end)

Tommy;

Roger. I need to pick up a descent grinder. Maybe I'll be brave and attempt the repair this weekend.

Larry,
Look at the first and last pictures on Alvins post,You can see how the stud is swagged over/peened. this is were I ground the stud not the steering arm. As you grind around the inside of the arm, you will see the ball stud shaft, when you do, that is when the hammer and punch come in. good luck.

...and you don't need a drill press. Just drill down the center for a ways to help it "collapse" and come out.

...when I ground mine down there is usually a little "dimple" in the very center that you can still see. Let us know how you come out if you do it.

Okay. You have me convinced. On Saturday I'll put my big boy pants on and have a go at it.

Larry, I just removed my ball studs this past week, (1950, 3100). I found after grinding off the peened/swagged area on the back and drilling a 3/8" hole about 1/4" deep I had trouble. I used a big, heavy hammer and then a 5 ton ratcheting press to no avail. Maybe I should have used a larger drill bit? Anyway, I called a local auto machine shop and they quoted $65.00/hr and 1 to 2 hrs work depending on how hard they were stuck. I asked him how big his press was and he said 20 ton. Heck, I ran out and used my $149.00 Harbor freight coupon to buy a 20 ton press. About 1/2 hour and they all came out nice and easy. So my press is half paid for!
Now if I can just find a way to use my Napa ball ends, (tapered shank), to fit my Pitman and steering arm, (the new modern tie rod ends that are available go right on in the straight holes), I'll be all set!
Good luck,
Tim

Tim,

I ground the peened area flat, drilled a hole I guess 1/2 deep and then hit with big hammer. Nothing happened, Then after staring and thinking about it, I took the dremmel and ground around the inside of the arm till I saw the outline of the shank of the ball stud. Them a couple of well placed hits with a punch and 3# hammer the studs were on the work bench.

My experience with this here.

Ok. I finally found the time and motivation to tackle the tie rod ends. Once I got the electric grinder and bench vise from HF, it was a piece of cake. It took some significant persuasion to get the ball studs out; even after I ground the flange off and drilled them out.

The other issue I had was trying to separate the steering arm off the drivers side. The tie rod came off the curved arm that bolts to the hub but I couldn't get the steering arm off the other end. I needed a pickle fork and didn't have one. Failure to plan!!

Anyway, the new ends went right on with no issues and look great. I can't really feel any difference when driving, since the old ones were in pretty good shape. I feel safer and I'm happy I could pull off a more involved job.

Larry,
Glad to see that you got the job done.

Larry, I knew you could do it.....now you can teach others